Man At Work

My 2011 W.A.R. List

2011-01-02T05:43:00.000-08:00

It's 2011 -- a new year! It's time once again for my annual W.A.R. (What to Acquire and Retire) List to help start the year right. This year, on top of style-related items, I'm including some habits that need to be kicked as well. If you're still putting together your resolutions, the following may help. Here goes...

RETIRE:

Clothes you haven't worn in at least 6 months. If you haven't worn them for at least 6 months, chances are they're just occupying precious closet space. Except, of course, for seasonal clothing like jackets or cold weather/winter apparel.
Ultra skinny jeans. Yes, I've seen men in "jeggings"; not a good sight. I get that 80's fashion has managed to creep it's way back somehow, but there are very few, and I mean VERY few, who can get away with wearing what looks like denim long johns.
Frayed/overly distressed jeans. I don't know about you, but there's something fundamentally wrong with spending hard-earned money on damaged clothing.
Fedoras. This item makes a return on this year's W.A.R. List because there are still quite a few who don't get it. Unless you are going to a costume party, please do not think this makes you look cool. It doesn't. Reality check, people, if you are neither a professional model (or at least look like one) nor Johnny freakin Depp, a baseball cap will do just fine.
Tardiness. The concept of "Filipino-time" is so pre-internet. And, just because it has "Filipino" attached to it, does not mean it's something we just accept as part of our culture. If you want this year to be a successful year for you, then realize that time waits for no one.
Three-button suits. The three-button suit is a classic, so it will not really go out of style. It's just that the modern, slim silhouette just looks a lot better on a 2-button or a single-button jacket for some reason; on the average body, that is. Again, if you look and have the body of a model, you can pull anything off -- even a double-breasted jacket.
Wearing the yellow ribbon pin. We have a new President. We've made our point. Let's move on.
Oversharing on Facebook or Twitter. Who needs to know what you ate or how successful you are? This is the quickest way to be blocked or, worse, "un-friended".

ACQUIRE

Colored socks. For those who know me, I'm an advocate of men adding a bit more color into an otherwise blue, black or white clothing portfolio. Yes, it takes some skill to know how to pair color, especially with socks, but once you get the hang of it, colored socks are a good way to bring some attention to fine leather shoes. So yes, that means investing in your footwear first.
Corduroy pants. For most men, casual Fridays predictably means either jeans or the staple khaki chinos. Straight-cut, low rise corduroy pants add to your casual options. And, like jeans and khakis, they pair well with almost anything.
Boat shoes. Otherwise known as topsiders, this is one of the 80's fashion staples I'm glad made a comeback. They're so versatile. They can be worn with either shorts, jeans or chinos. With the successful resurrection of the Lacoste polo shirts and the return of loafers, this completes the return of the preppy. Oh, and as you get your boat shoes remember that, unlike loafers, there's no other way to wear boat shoes except with no socks. Check out Sebago, they customize your boat shoes.
Chocolate brown suit. For 2011, chocolate brown is the new black. Have a single-button chocolate brown suit made so you can wear the jacket as a separate; paired with jeans, corduroys or gray trousers.
Your own tailor. If you haven't discovered the joys of wearing made-to-measure clothes, you are so missing out. And, if you're still using your Dad's tailor, you will most likely look like, well, your Dad. So set an appointment with us and realize how good you can actually look if your clothes fit you right. Okay, so that's a shameless plug, but it's my blog and my list ;-)
A healthy appetite to try new things. New places to eat. New types of food. New places to see. A new barber. Wear new colors. Listen to different types of music. If you believe what the Mayans say about 2012, then 2011 makes for a good year to tick-off your bucket list.

Happy New Year everyone!

The Ties That Bind

2010-08-16T09:05:00.000-07:00

Q: I'm 35 and have been wearing a tie to work since I started working over 10 years ago. So, as you can expect, most of my ties are not the slim narrow ones I often see in men's magazines nowadays. Should I stop wearing my wider ties and trade them all in for the slim narrow ones? I don't want to throw my existing ties away because, well, I have a lot of them and they're not cheap.

-- Lester, via e-mail

A: As long as your ties are no more than 3-3.5 inches wide on the widest portion just before the pointed tip, they're still okay. It's the ultra wide (> 3 inches wide) ties that should be laid to rest. Slim ties are actually not new. They've just made a comeback. Believe it or not, our Dads used to wear slim ties in the 70's, together with their body-hugging nylon shirts.

Since you use ties very often anyway, it'd be good to have maybe 3 or 4 slim ties (not narrower than 2 inches on it's widest part) just to keep up with the trend and maybe look a little younger. They may go out of style in a couple of years or so, but you can bet that, like a Patek (assuming you buy a good quality one), you can pass them down to the next generation.

Wear your wider ties when you're meeting with older, more conservative people and use slimmer ties for dressy events or when pairing with jeans or chinos.

Oh and as for the pattern on your tie, stay away from flowers, cartoon characters and (for now) paisley.

Gingham City

2010-08-07T23:15:00.000-07:00

If you're not sure about what type of checked shirt will fit you, the failsafe choice is a gingham shirt -- small checked cotton blend shirts. This type of shirt works for any body-type.

Don't be afraid to try out other colors. Blue is a staple, but shades of lavander and indigo are the current must-haves.

The other thing that works for ginghams is that it works for both business or casual.

Pair it with gray trousers and a slim black tie and you're ready for your next meeting. Ditch the tie, buckle on your military belt and trade your leathers for sneakers to welcome the weekend.

Should you fold your sleeves? It doesn't matter, but the weather will usually dictate this one.

The Real World

2010-03-07T06:48:00.000-08:00

Sarto,

First of all, your site is an invaluable resource for us men. I've learned things about dressing up that I've never quite understood before. I have a few questions since I'm about to enter the corporate world. My college days were spent mostly in shorts, jeans, sneakers, and t-shirts. I wasn't the typical stylish guy back then but I want to have an improved image now that I'm about to work. I find myself unsure of what to buy to at least have a closet with the "essentials". Can you recommend brands of long-sleeved shirts that you prefer? I'm looking specifically for those crisp, white dress shirts that I see on TV but I can't seem to find one. How about neckties? I'm seeing inexpensive brands in department stores but I was wondering if it would be better to invest on those nice silk ties. Finally, is it advisable for me to have my pants custom-made or just stick with off-the-rack items? I hope you can suggest brands that are within the range of a typical worker earning 20-25k. Thanks a lot.

Michael

-------

Dressing up is not primarily about brands. It's about quality and fit. Of course, the generally accepted belief is that branded clothes tend to do well on quality. But, good fit is not always a function of the price tag.

If you're lucky to have a medium build with mannequinesque proportions, then retail is still the best and probably the more affordable option. Your mentioned income will be able to afford you classic shirts from Marks & Spencer and Zara.

However, if you have a tricky body build (vertically or horizontally challenged), then visit a good tailor with approximately 2. 5 yards of pure Japanese or Swiss cotton fabric. Be ready to spend somewhere from P 1,800 to P 2,500 for well-tailored shirts. But, I assure you, once you get the right tailor, you will be spoiled with the right-fitting shirts.

There are a lot of option for affordable ties -- those from Tie Line, Top Man and Zara are among those that won't break the bank.

On pants, I'm still for tailored, unpleated pants.

I've mentioned this before... clothes are an investment. Especially for someone who's just starting out, the first impressions you will create will have a big impact on how your career will progress (or not).

Enjoy the real world!

Holiday Angst

2009-12-22T18:54:00.000-08:00

Okay, so the overall average temperature dropped slightly from 27C to maybe 24C -- that does not make it winter!

Why then are all of a sudden people walking around the streets of Manila wearing scarves, fedoras and, yes, gloves; looking like it's 12C out there?? Okay, maybe it's forgivable if you just came from Simbang Gabi, but during the day, at 24-25C? Either you're on your way to a costume party or you're under the weather, but otherwise, please... get real!

For those who wrote or contacted me wanting to have a suit made in a rush, I'm sorry to have declined your request, but I would rather pass up on potential business than compromise the quality of what Sarto has come to be known for. Anyway, there are a lot of shops out there who will willingly manufacture a suit in less than the 3 weeks I need to make a bespoke suit.

If you're going to have clothes made this Season, remember to tell your tailor to put maybe a 1/2 inch allowance around your stomach area, waist and hips. The holiday weight tends to linger on until maybe about early February -- unless, of course, you are the conscientious type who will hit the gym right after. I know most of us aren't ;-)

Here's to a great Chirstmas and a healthy New Year!

The Perfect Gift

2009-12-13T06:41:00.000-08:00

If you're still clueless with what to give the men in your life this Season, how about tailored clothes?

E-mail us at sartomanila@gmail.com to inquire about gift certificates for:

1. bespoke suits
2. dress shirts
3. trousers

Sorry for not updating the blog people, work's been ... well ... work! :-)

Have a meaningful and joyful Christmas celebration!

Wash & Wear

2009-10-03T09:25:00.001-07:00

Q: "I'd like to ask if it's hygienic to re-wear the same pants for work the following day? I'm asking because I did it for most of my internship since I don't have enough pants to rotate for the rest of the week. So I tended to wear the same pants for two consecutive days."

----- CK (via e-mail)

A: If your pants are made from wool and are lined, these are likely dry-clean only pants; therefore, it is not advisable to wash them frequently. Dry-cleaning pants frequently will lead to fabric thinning, fraying and causes those spots that are shiny (from the extreme heat of the cleaner's pressing).

However, if your pants are made from polyester or rayon blend, then these are safe for ordinary machine washing and do not need to be dry-cleaned.

I'm assuming you work in an air-conditioned office and are mostly indoors. So, you would not be exposed to a lot of dust and dirt anyway. Which means, you really only need to wash your pants maybe 2x/week for machine washable pants, and once a month for dry-clean only pants.

If you soil or stain your pants, spot-cleaning is typically recommended. For tips on how to treat several common stains, visit the Tide website at www.tide.com.

Farewell to a Great Woman

2009-08-02T07:42:00.000-07:00

Last week, the Philippines lost one of its great leaders, former President Corazon "Cory" Aquino.

We post a yellow ribbon as a sign of our gratitude to the Woman who brought back democracy to a nation raveged by 20 years of dictatorship.

Thank you, President Cory.

To Set An Appoinment

2009-07-19T05:59:00.001-07:00

For those of you who have been asking about how to get in touch with me for your custom tailoring needs, please e-mail me at sartomanila@gmail.com. In your e-mail, please state your full name and include a contact number (preferrably a cellphone number).

Ciao!

Pairing

2009-07-13T07:58:00.000-07:00

Q: What belt can I wear when I wear sneakers? Does it have to match the color of my sneakers?
-- Tomas, Pasig City

A: I find that military belts work best when pairing with sneakers. No, you don’t have to match colors like what is typically prescribed when wearing leather shoes. That’s because wearing sneakers is obviously more casual and therefore the traditional pairing rules can be relaxed as well. Your military belt’s color can match your pants, your shirt or any dominant color in your overall outfit. If you’re still unsure, then ditch the belt altogether. That’ll work too.

Color Me Big

2009-07-13T07:56:00.000-07:00

Q: I’m a big guy. I know that black is a good color for someone my size to give me some slimming effect. I can’t have everything in black though. What colors are good for a hefty man like me?
-- Louie, Taguig City

A: I’d hate for you to look like you’re always going to a funeral. Big men like you can and should wear some color; though, you should favor darker or deeper shades like eggplant purple, navy blue, brown, etc. What you need to avoid are pastel or pale colors. On top of color, your shirts’ patterns can also help make people think you’ve skipped a snack. Stock up on vertical striped shirts. It makes the eyes focus on length instead of width. If you’re thinking of wearing checkered shirts, stay away from those with big checkered patterns. Aside from making you look like you stole the table cloth of the Italian restaurant you just had lunch at, the big squares will just emphasize and not hide your man curves.

Nature Knows Best

2009-05-17T07:33:00.000-07:00

I read a lifestyle writer in a major broadsheet telling men that colored jeans are the IT thing and that men should not be afraid to wear them. I couldn’t disagree more.

I mean, I know a lot of the big-name designers are reviving colored jeans on their runways, but doesn’t mean we should all start looking like members of Menudo. For those of you not old enough to know who they are, Menudo launched Ricky Martin’s career. Think Latino Backstreet Boys in the 80’s.

My point here is that men’s and women’s fashion and style should not crossover to the each other. The difference is necessary to ironically create fashion harmony between both genders.

A good way to think about this is to look at nature. If you think in terms of plants, I like to think of men as leafy plants; those with no brightly colored flowers, but where the accents come from leaves with varying shades of the same color family (not necessarily green).

These plants do not call out attention but they hold their own in terms of how they complete a landscape. They provide the backdrop for the stars of the garden – those plants with brightly colored flowers – women.

We men have to accept our role as our girlfriend’s or wife’s perfect fashion accessory. We shouldn’t dress to call attention to ourselves, but rather to help bring out the beauty of the women around us.

For me, the best example of this principle in action is how Ashton Kutcher dresses when he’s with his (cougar) wife, Demi Moore. If you Google images of this couple you will find that, in the pictures that they are together, Demi is the clear standout; husband Ashton is careful to pick the right outfit to help make sure this is achieved while managing look good and stylish on his own.

Often, men who dress like they are the “flowers’, do get the attention they crave for, but not necessarily the right kind. How do you avoid this? Well, stay away from loud and busy prints and avoid bright colors.

Don’t get me wrong… I am not against wearing color per se. In fact, I’m all for expanding your shirt selection to items that are not blue, white, black or gray. However, the thing to remember is to stick to hues that are more subdued. For instance, it is perfectly fine to wear a pink shirt, but fuchsia is a whole different story.

If you want to try something different for your pants, do not experiment with color. Stick with the trusted shades of blue, black, gray, and brown; white, for me, is even a hit-or-miss kind of color for pants. Rather, look at pattern (e.g. plaid, pinstriped, etc.) and/or fabric (e.g. linen, corduroy, etc.).

Now if you’re trying out for, say, American Idol, and know deep in your heart that you can’t sing and that the only way you will get some air time is to stand out in the crowd, then by all means, be a freaking bouquet!

Delinquent

2009-05-04T08:37:00.000-07:00

Okay, so I haven't posted anything for over a month now. Sorry for that folks, I was travelling here and there, and mostly trying to earn a living through my day job. The tailoring business is a hobby, you see. It's a profitable one, but it won't send my kids to school; not yet, at least.

I'm going to be posting my updates soon and I promise to answer most of the questions that have flooded my inbox.

Just a quick one... to all those still wearing fedoras, please, please, please spare us. You want to know why what's-his-name-who-was-saved-by-the-judges got booted out of American Idol recently -- FEDORA!

Your True Collar

2009-03-09T00:10:00.000-07:00

Q: Hi. What can you say about the trend last year of guys simply putting up their collar? I
think it is a little absurd.
--- Richie (via Blog Comment)

A: Last year saw the return of the preppy look -- arglyes, boat shoes, loafers, going sockless and yes, raised collars. As in most styles, the preppy look does not fit everyone. To pull this off, you have to belieavably look like you belong to an exclusive country club or play golf regularly.

On the practical side, raising your collar if you are a golfer helps prevent burns on your nape, which is often the part of your body that most forget to put sunblock on.

If you're planning to try this out, remember that you can only also really do this with a sport shirt, not a polo dress shirt. I hope I don't need to explain this. If you're asking why, one word -- Dracula.

This look is also more appropriate for day time casual because it can appear that you came from a game of tennis or golf and that just forgot to put your collar down.

Those Freakin Bumps!

2009-03-08T01:25:00.000-08:00

Q: Do you ever get those lumps on the shoulders of your shirt when they are hung for a long time? How do I get rid of those?

-- Jondy, Taguig

A: I call them “hanger bumps” and they’re one of my pet peeves. The thing with hanger bumps is that they’re very preventable. The first thing you need to do is to get rid of all your wire hangers and those that have sharp corners. Use only wooden or plastic hangers that have rounded extended shoulders like the one pictured.

Next, instruct whoever irons your clothes to fold sport shirts and only hang polo shirts or dress shirts. Sport shirts are more prone to hanger bumps because they are made from softer cotton blends that tend conform to the shape of the wearer and also your hanger.
Now, for your shirts already with hanger bumps, while wearing them, damp (not soak) the bumps evenly with warm water. The warm water and your natural body heat will make the bumps disappear or be significantly minimized within 15-20 minutes.

Undershirts

2009-03-08T01:21:00.000-08:00

My apologies to those who follow my blog if I was not able to update for a long time. Things got a litte hectic in the office. I have some time now so let me pick-up some of the questions that have been sent my way while I was on the road:

Q: Is there a rule about wearing a white t-shirt under one’s polo? I’m about to start work and I don’t know if I should be wearing one or not.
-- Rick, Quezon City

A: I personally do not have the habit of wearing an undershirt mainly because it makes me feel uncomfortably warm and I do not sweat a lot. I can think of the following reasons where an undershirt is appropriate.

One is that if you are a heavy sweater, then you cannot escape this practice. There is nothing more disgusting than seeing an archipelago of sweat puddles forming on someone’s dress shirt. Aside from it looking despicably untidy, it carries with it some hygiene concerns. This is the surest way not to get promoted, believe me.

Another reason you would want to wear an undershirt is if your office has an overly efficient air conditioner that makes you feel like you’re somewhere in Siberia all the time. And, while some parts of our body shrink when it is cold, our nipples tend to be inordinately attentive. That can be distracting during meetings.
If you’re going to wear an undershirt, though, the only rule is to ensure it is not visible, especially if you’re wearing short sleeved polo shirts. I would recommend those V-necked (sleeveless) muscle shirts (otherwise known as an A-shirt). These can be flexibly worn with long or short sleeved polo shirts and allows you to keep the first button of your shirt open without showing the undershirt.

Time for W.A.R.

2009-01-11T07:51:00.000-08:00

Another year has gone. Time to come to our senses and get rid of things we thought made us look cool and fashionable but did just the opposite. And, time to start investing our hard-earned money on things that are timeless and classically stylish.

It's a new year and it's time once again for W.A.R. -- my annual What to Acquire and Retire list.

ACQUIRE:

1. French Cuffed Dress Shirts – These shirts, for me, are the ultimate in gentleman style. It’s the easiest way to get an instant upgrade. Not a lot of guys realize that this seemingly formal dress shirt can also be worn as smart or business casual with no tie and, yes, even paired you’re your favorite pair of jeans.

2. Cufflinks – When you stock up on French Cuff Shirts, you will obviously need at least a couple of cufflinks to match. Men have very few accessory options and cufflinks are one of them. It’s a nice detail to accentuate a crisp shirt paired with tailored flat front pants. Whether you’re conservative or edgy, there’s a pair of cufflinks that suits your personality.

3. Dress Watch – Another must-have accessory for the discriminating achiever is a good dress watch. Your watch is probably the best indicator of your status in life. As you become more successful and have a little more extra cash to spare, upgrade your timepiece to something you can actually pawn to bail you out when you find yourself in debt later on in life.

4. Tailored Shirts – For those of you who haven’t realized it yet, the era of wearing loose and frumpy shirts went away with pleated pants (which were the only types of pants that could tuck them in). You don’t have to be skinny to get tailored shirts. All you need is, well, a tailor. What sets tailored shirts apart from off-the-rack versions is that way it conforms to your specific body type, giving you the right silhouette and fit. Tailored shirts tuck in perfectly, without the blousy effect.

5. Corduroy Jacket – Celebrate the New Year and kick up your style a notch by adding another layer to your party wardrobe – a corduroy jacket. It’s a versatile piece that’s best worn with jeans or khakis. Choose a chocolate or dark brown color with fine to medium cords.

6. Dress Socks – Beef up your inventory of dress socks so you won’t ever have to wear sports socks with your slacks. If you’re still one of those who wear white sports socks with your office attire, get used to your salary, you’re not moving up for a while.

RETIRE:

1. Tie bar – I know, I know all the foreign men’s magazines are showing people wearing tie bars or tie clips with their slim ties, but honestly, have you ever seen anyone where this and not think, “What government office does he work at?” Sorry, this just doesn’t work the way they used to back in the 60’s. Peace!

2. Baller I.D.s – Enough of Lance Armstrong wannabes already. We have to bid goodbye to baller I.D.s the way we successfully snipped those pesky friendship bracelets off our wrists (and ankles). Besides, have you smelled your baller I.D. at the end of a long day? Nasty!

3. Fedoras – And pretty much all types head gear that’s not worn for sports, environmental protection reasons (i.e. extremely cold or hot weather) or as part of a period costume. Again, just because you see it being worn by your Hollywood idol or on the pages of foreign magazines, doesn’t mean you can pull it off. In the case of fedoras, it’s just plain T.H. (trying hard)!

4. Gold Buckle Belts – Nothing says “I’m old and outdated” better than wearing a gold buckle belt. It doesn’t matter if it’s branded and cost you an equivalent of a pair of shoes, when you wear one, you might as well clip a pager on it. Platinum is the new gold. Even the credit card companies know this.

I hope you all had an enjoyable and meaningful long holiday. Heard in the news, there'll be more of those this 2009. Happy New Year!

I Love This Cake!

2008-12-02T02:18:00.000-08:00

It's one of those rare times I'm writing about something that's not related to Style and Grooming and I'm only really doing this to share my latest find with y'all.

It was my Mom's birthday yesterday, December 1, 2008 and I was looking for an extra special cake to give her. She's very picky with food so I was careful to choose something I'm sure she would love and not be able to say, "I can make a better one."

I saw a print ad of red Ribbon's new cake, their Coffee Walnut Bavarian, and the way it was described seemed to fit the bill of what I was looking for. And, I was not disappointed... and more importantly, neither was my Mom.

She loved how it was creamy but light at the same time; and the trace of Kahlua blending delightfully with the walnuts and chocolate chips was just perfect.

I learned from the people at Red Ribbon that this is only available for the month of December, so you cake lovers better hurry or it'll be another year before you taste this masterpiece.

Can You Smell Me?

2008-11-23T06:40:00.000-08:00

Q: My carpoolmates think I wear too much perfume. They’ve actually requested if I can put on my perfume when I get to the office already. But I like wearing my perfume after I take a bath because I like to smell good and it makes me feel clean. Should I change my scent or look for other carpoolmates?

-- Andrew, Caloocan

A: I think you’re missing the message of your carpoolmates, amigo. They’re not complaining about the scent of your cologne per se, but rather how much you put on.

As a general rule, the best way to apply cologne is to keep it subtle – think appetizer portions vs. main course.

It’s easier to control your application when you use a spray-on cologne vs. one that comes in a regular bottle because the cologne is dispensed in less concentration and is regulated by the spray nozzle.

For spray-ons, position the spray nozzle one (1) foot away from your body and spray only twice; one on each side of your neck.

If you have a regular cologne bottle do not splash the cologne the way they do it in baby cologne TV commercials. Do not pour cologne out on your palm and apply from there. Use one finger over the bottle opening, tip the bottle over and evenly apply cologne on each side of your neck, just below your jaw line.

Too much cologne tells people you either didn’t take a bath or are overcompensating to hide body odor. So, in this case, less is more!

Loosen Up My Buttons, Baby!

2008-11-23T06:37:00.000-08:00

Q: What do you think about shirts with button-down collars as an officewear or with a suit?
-- Stan, Greenhills

A: It’s perfectly fine for officewear with a tie and even for business casual. I’m not too hot about using button-downs for suits though unless the buttons are neatly hidden under the collars the way G2000 does it or using a snap on automatic button popularized by Giorgio Armani. Button-down shirts with visible buttons on the collars, for me, distract from the overall neat and polished look that you would like to exude when you’re wearing a suit.

The Revenge of the Nerds

2008-10-14T08:43:00.000-07:00

I’m four-eyed and proud.

The anti-nerd movement in the 80’s gave glasses a bad image which caused most of the visually challenged to promptly trade theirs for contact lenses.

But now, with technology driving the Information Age, we are experiencing the real revenge of the nerd. We’ve all seen the triumphant return of Peter Parker and Clark Kent. Geek is now chic!

Personally, I really prefer glasses over contacts. Apart from the relief from all the discomforts from wearing contacts, like dry eyes, I find that glasses gives me more flexibility and options when it comes to the overall look I want to project.

If I need to look all serious and professional, I wear my silver, conservative frames, which go well with any business attire. For more casual or social functions, I go with the rectangular, horn-rimmed glasses my wife gave me for Christmas.

This pair matches most of my casual or night-out clothes, which tend to be dark-colored.

The face of your shape primarily dictates the frame that suits you best. The rule of thumb is to pick frames that provide a complimentary contrast to the shape and create balance for your face. See what comes closest to your own face with the following common shapes:

If you have a round face, you’d like your glasses to give you a thinner and longer appearance. Angular narrow eyeglass frames that are wider than they are deep, such as a rectangular shape, can achieve this for this facial type.

Because of its balanced proportions, the oval face is considered as the ideal shape. This is also the easiest and most flexible shape to pair with because most frames will tend to work. Frames that are as wide as the broadest part of the face (e.g. walnut-shaped) that are not too deep or too narrow work best.

Oblong shaped faces are longer than they are wide so the objective is to minimize the length to achieve the right balance and proportion. Choose frames that cover as much of the center of the face as possible in order to minimize the length.

If you have a square face, you’d like frames that can make your face look longer and your jaw lines. Frames that have more width than depth and narrow ovals complement this facial type.

This is also sometimes referred to as a base-up triangle shape. If this is your face, your objective should be to minimize the width of the top of the face. Frames that are wider at the bottom and use very light colors and materials can achieve this for you. Rimless frame styles also work best on this face type.

The Base-Down Shape is the opposite of the heart-shaped face, where the face has a narrow forehead that widens at the cheek and chin areas. To balance out the broader lower part of the face, favor frames that are heavily accented on the top region like those that are semi-rimless (heavy top, and no frame at the bottom).

In choosing the color of your frames, eyewear experts say to consider eye color; but, since Pinoy eyes generally just come in either black or brown, what’s important to consider is for the color of your frames to reflect your personality and what will match 80% of your wardrobe.

The Beach

2008-09-28T08:26:00.000-07:00

The beach used to be a place you could escape from everything – where you can wear anything you like, be who you really are and no one will care. Nowadays, that’s just not the case anymore.

Summer is the time when finding parking in Manila’s usually full clubs and bars is a little easier. Why? Well, it’s the time of the year when the city’s beautiful people and bonafide partyfiles trade concrete for sand – it’s one big soiree! So, if you’re one of those who will make this annual pilgrimage to Boracay, Bohol or Palawan you wouldn’t want to be caught dead looking like a castaway. Following then are some things you may want to consider to be a beach DUDE instead of a beach dud.

1. PREPARE YOUR BODY

In this age of abs worship and healthy living, guys need to prepare for the beach the way women lose weight for their wedding. This is your chance to show people the results of those long and hard hours at the gym. Consider that you will be half-naked for a good 70% of the time. No one wears t-shirts while swimming anymore; okay, maybe I know two…

Preparing your body is not about getting 6-pack abs or being runway model fit; though, that wouldn’t hurt. It’s just about looking overall healthy. Those love handles that most of us have are okay. You know you’ve got a bit more work to do if people mistake you for the Michelin Man.

It would also save you the stares if you would shave, trim or wax off lush body hair growing on your chest, back and treasure trail. I hate to be the one to break the news to some of you, but the Austin Powers look is not mojoreffic, baby.

2. WEAR THE RIGHT SWIMWEAR

Let’s get this out of the way… no matter how much of a swimmer’s body you have (or even if you’re a real swimmer) skimpy Speedos™ have no place in the beach.

Ask yourself, would you walk around in public in your briefs?

Okay, so you’re being smart and you ask back, well, how come it’s okay for women to wear a two-piece bikini? And the answer -- it’s because they look hot in them, duh! A short survey also showed that men want to see women in skimpy bikinis, while majority of women don’t even want to or are even embarrassed to look at men wearing Speedos™. So if the girls ain’t looking, who’s checking you out (wink)?

All’s not lost though for this water-proof brief… we’ll get to that in a minute.

So what to wear in the beach? Stick to the trusty board shorts; now made more contemporary with a slimmer cut and comes in 4” or 8” length. If you’re vertically challenged, favor the 4” length shorts if you don’t want to look like you’re wearing cut-offs.

One of the hippest, but sadly not locally available, swim wear brands right now is Parke & Ronen. Check out their website (http://www.parkeandronen.com/) to get an idea of the different board shorts styles that suit you and just get the closest local equivalent.

3. HIDE THE BULGE

Very few, and we’re talking 1 out of the 35 guys I asked, go commando (i.e. wear no form or type of underwear) under their board shorts. And, the main reason, to “keep from flopping around” and letting other people know just exactly what size you are; don’t forget the water can get cold.

By now, you should have figured out that when you get out of the water, your shorts will cling on you like Glad Wrap™. So, if you’re not wearing anything under, you might as well not be wearing anything at all.

This is where Speedos™ actually come in handy. Instead of wearing ordinary briefs, which are not tight enough and can also fall off, using Speedos™ as your swim underwear not only keeps your manhood from prying eyes, they also give your crown jewels better protection against jellyfish or other curious sea creatures looking for new habitat.
The beach is the human species’ watering hole, where all gather to congregate and cool off from the scorching sun. And, much like what happens with our animal counterparts, this seasonal gathering also becomes the venue for displaying our natural attributes that allow us to attract and/or keep our mate. So as you pack your bag for your white sand getaway make sure you, well, “BRING IT”.

Face Your Problem

2008-09-28T08:23:00.000-07:00

Q: My girlfriend has been telling me to get a facial. She says it will improve my complexion and make me look younger. I haven’t done it because I think it’s a total waste of money and I think it’s so gay. Am I right?
-- Richie, Quezon City

A: I’ve never been a fan of facials myself. Not for the reasons you site though, but I just don’t like my face being touched by a stranger; most especially if they are not a certified dermatologist. That said, though, I am an advocate of men taking care of their face and skin.
If you think about it, we need to be more conscious of facial care because of the tremendous stress we subject our faces to by shaving everyday and generally being more exposed to the sun, the elements (e.g. dust) and pollution vs. our lady loves.

Read between the lines, mister. It’s not about having a facial. What your girlfriend is really telling you is that you’re beginning to look old and weary. Since us men like the D.I.Y. (Do-It-Yourself) concept when it comes to fixing things, let me give you a simple D.I.Y. routine to rejuvenate your skin -- cleanse and moisturize at least twice a day. And, when you’re ready for the next level, you can throw in “exfoliate” in the process. I’m not there yet.

Tailored Bulge?

2008-08-06T08:09:00.001-07:00

Q: I am now a convert to flat front pants, thanks to you. However, I noticed that my front pockets bulge more noticeably vs. when I wore pleated pants. Was this my tailor’s mistake or is this really how flat front pants are?

-- Jacob, Marikina City

A: Flat front pants, if tailored well, should give you a slim silhouette. Yes, they are less forgiving than pleated pants when it comes to hiding bulges. While the tailoring of your pants could be one reason, the more likely cause is that you’re just putting way too many things in your pockets to begin with. If I were to venture a guess, you’re probably stuffing your front pockets with a whole bunch of keys, coins and your cellphone; or worse, your Blackberry. You didn’t notice this when you were wearing pleated pants because pleats expand and cause your pants to balloon to accommodate the extra weight (including your own). But, since the MC Hammer look is so over, your decision to wear unpleated pants need to be coupled with a small change in old habits as well. Pockets are not built-in bags. You only really need to bring maybe 2 keys with you – your car’s and the key to your office or house. The other pocket should just have a hanky and a money clip. As for your your cellphone, well they’re are getting slimmer and slimmer now, so maybe it’s time to harass your carrier to change your handset.

I can’t imagine you would need to put anything more in your pockets. But, if you’re the type that must carry a lot of “essentials then maybe it’s time to think like Batman – ditch the pants and trade it for a kick-ass belt.

Anchors Away!

2008-08-06T07:57:00.001-07:00

Q: I need your help. My friends have been telling me that I should make an extra effort to dress up. I’m a t-shirt and jeans kinda guy… only because I don’t know how to pair and match my clothes. Jeans seem to be the safest thing to wear for someone like me. What do I need to know so I can start wearing other things?

-- Andrew, Caloocan

A: I have a lot of friends who are just like you; some of whom have 3 or 4 jeans of exactly the same color and style. The lack of knowledge in pairing or matching clothes is, more often than not, really a deep rooted fear of not knowing how to wear colors outside blue, white and black.

Let me then share with you the concept of “anchoring”. Simply, what this means is that you choose a particular piece of clothing or accessory that will serve as the anchor or base that dictates the color combination of your entire outfit.

Personally, I find that choosing your pants as the anchor is the easiest. Since you’re a slacks neophyte, I would suggest you choose gray pants. For me, gray is the most versatile when it comes to being paired with different colors. It pairs well with white, blue, lavender, green. Most guys think black is the fail safe option. But, what you don’t realize is that black does not really pair well with pastel or light color hues. That limits your options right there.

So remember, when your jeans are making you blue, dress gray.

Gray Wedding

2008-07-02T08:30:00.000-07:00

Q: Can I wear a gray suit for an evening wedding? -- Vince, Quezon City

A: It depends on the shade of gray. Light or ash gray (like the one pictured on the left) is normally a daytime, business suit and not usually worn for formal evening occasions like weddings. It would look like you came straight from work and didn’t have time to change. Charcoal gray is the way to go for dressier events. It’s also very versatile color which can be worn for day or night.
The “formality” of your suit also depends on the tie you will use. For dressy occasions, stay away from striped “power” ties. They’re more appropriate for business and work-related daytime functions. Solid, dark colored ties work best for a dapper evening look.

Bringing It to the Beach

2008-06-01T06:51:00.000-07:00

I still remember the first time I went to Boracay back in 1998; before the calming sound of the sea was drowned by house music and the palm trees outnumbered by advertising banners.

Ask anyone who knows me well and they will tell you that I’m a bonafide city dweller. I enjoy (and depend a lot on) the conveniences that modern urban life offers. Yes, I was looking forward to seeing the famed white sand beaches of Boracay (no one called it “Bora” then) but, I was admittedly more troubled that I may not have clean running water and electricity to take frequent showers and have the option to turn on the air condition if it got too hot.

Boracay then already had a pretty good night life reputation. And, since I’m not really a beach person (the last time I was in a beach before this was back in 1992 because it was a P.E. requirement) I was clueless as to what people wore when they partied on an island.
So, with all this going on in my head the night before my flight, I struggled to finish packing. And, when I finally finished at around 2 a.m., here’s what I thought I needed for 3 days in this tropical paradise:

- 2 pairs of swimming/board shorts – I figured I could wash and dry the first one I wore and wear it again on the third day

- 4 round neck t-shirts – one for each day plus a spare in case I got too sweaty and needed to change

- 3 collared sport shirts – one for each day

- 2 short sleeved polo shirts – for partying at night

- 3 pairs of walking shorts – one for each day. I didn’t think I needed a spare because I thought I could repeat wearing a used one in case I needed to change more than once for some reason. I couldn’t do this with a shirt because used shirts normally stink and get too wrinkled to be re-worn

- 2 pairs of boxers – for sleeping, and as spare underwear

- 2 white undershirts – for sleeping

- 1 pair of jeans – for partying at night

- 1 pair of khaki chinos – in case the place we would go to did not allow jeans (I told you I was clueless)

- 2 pairs of socks – for my rubber shoes

- 1 pair of rubber shoes – for long walks or outdoor activities

- rubber slip-ons – flip flops were really just pambahay then

- leather sandals – to wear after changing from swimming and for walking around outside the sandy areas

- 6 pairs of underwear – 3 for swimming, 3 for daily use

- 1 beach towel plus 1 regular bath towel

- my toiletry bag which had
> sun block
> a small bottle of shampoo and a bar of soap
> sachets of conditioner (my wife, who was then my girlfriend, told me this was indispensable so that your hair wouldn’t dry up and look nasty after swimming)
> razor and deodorant
> lip balm (your lips can get sunburned too, you know)
> toothbrush and a giant tube of toothpaste
> a nail clipper

- A first-aid kit for basic medicines and first-aid items (e.g. paracetamol, anti-diarrhea, anti-allergy, band-aid, iodine, cotton, cotton buds and alcohol)

- a flashlight and a Swiss knife

- my Discman – no iPods back then

- some junkfood – okay, it was A LOT of junkfood

and finally, my shades.

I had to stop myself from bringing a sleeping bag, just in case the beds weren’t clean. I put this beside my giant backpack (think Mt. Everest expedition) just in case I changed my mind in the morning.

Much to my surprise, though, Boracay was pretty civilized. The resort we stayed in had cable!
How much of the above did I really use -- maybe just 30%. The rest served as a (heavy) lesson in overpacking. I could have avoided bringing my house if I bothered to find out more about Boracay.

So, when planning for what to pack for your trip just remember the two Es of packing:

a) ENVIRONMENT – Check the weather. Where are you staying (e.g. hotel, resort, etc.)? Would they have the basic amenities (e.g. clean linen, towels, toiletries, etc.) so you can spare yourself from bringing these bulky items.

b) EVENT – What will you be doing? Who will you be with? How many days and nights will you be staying for? Are you going to do any outdoor activities? Will you be doing a lot of partying?
Now that I’ve cured myself from overpacking, there’s more space in my luggage to go overbuying.

Outing the Metrosexual

2008-05-24T08:31:00.001-07:00

Is the Metrosexual the modern man?

Commonly defined as “a straight, sensitive, well-educated, urban dweller who is in touch with his feminine side, has a standing appointment for a weekly manicure, and most likely has his hair cared for by a stylist rather than a barber, frequents the gym and is very fashion conscious” the Metrosexual has emerged as one of modern marketing’s newest demographic.

The term “metrosexual”, while tracing its roots as far back as the early 80’s, really caught on sometime 2002-2003; inspiring shows like “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” and elevating spas to "lechon-manok" ubiquity.

While I agree that the modern man has definitely evolved from the rugged and macho Marlboro Man, I still don’t buy the idea that what has emerged as the man of the new millennium is the “metrosexual” as defined above.

For me, “metrosexual” is more accurately the new “bisexual”. In other words, it more accurately defines the I’m-gay-but-I’m-not-ready-to-come-yet gender. The word itself seems more similarly coined to words that describe sexual preferences (e.g. heterosexual, homosexual, bisexual and transsexual).

This is why I think a lot of modern (straight) men who are called a “metrosexual” cringe and are even quick to deny that they are part of this demographic. Sure, the new breed of men are a little more conscious of how they look and are more refined, but there are just too many dodgy characteristics of the metrosexual that makes us, who are referred to as one, feel more uncomfortable, even insulted, than flattered. So, for the record, the modern man is not the likes of Ryan Seacrest.

The modern man is not fashionable. He is stylish. He is not interested in couture. He has a tailor. He takes extra effort to look good and be well groomed because he is discriminating and demands no less from his girl. He knows what clothes are right for him and how to be the perfect accessory to his date. Think Leonardo DiCaprio and Ashton Kutcher.

The modern man does not wear any form of make-up but recognizes that, as women continue to work on delaying aging, they will want a mate that does not look like a prune. So, he takes care of his skin. Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt, Keanu Reeves and Johnny Depp have all made 40 the new 30.

The modern man does not carry a man bag. The concept of a “man bag” is as ridiculous as lady condoms. It’s simply naïve to think that a man bag-totting guy won’t try to take a quick peek to check you out if you happen to be side-by-side in a public toilet.

The modern man shouldn’t need a manicure or a pedicure. For one, there’s really just one way to wear our nails – short. How hard can it be to cut your own nails? And what could move anyone to color their nails? There’s nothing modern about pink, freshly manicured or pedicured nails. In fact, they’re often seen on men that are dirty and old.

The modern man does not wear jewelry, but knows enough about them to buy only the best for his girl. Birthdays, your engagement, anniversaries, Christmas and please-forgive-me moments are just among the many occasions where you will find that this skill is just as important as studying her menstrual cycle.

The modern man does not spend an inordinate amount of time in the gym. Why? Well, because that’s not where all the hot girls are. However, he is conscious enough to get the right amount of exercise and watches what he eats because he knows that women want a man who can live to see their children grow up.

There is a new breed of men now being called “ubermen”. Ubermen are defined as a heterosexual man who is masculine, confident, compassionate, and stylish. The marketing community has realized that Ricky Martin is just not in the same league as Bono, George Clooney or our very own Jaime Augusto Zobel de Ayala.

So is the uberman the modern man? Maybe, but all I know is he most probably lives in the valley between Marlboro Country and Brokeback Mountain.

What to Acquire & What to Retire

2008-04-18T00:56:00.000-07:00

Acquire: Slim, pointed leather dress shoes. Whether cap-toe or wing tip, slim shoes complete the trim, contemporary cuts of you shirt and pants.

Retire: Square-toed dress shoes. The paddle foot look is (thankfully) over.

Acquire: Money clip – A good way of helping you bring only the cash you really need and making sure your pants don’t lose their form.

Retire: Thick, bulky wallets - Apart from causing butt shiners on your pants, they’re not good for the lower back if you habitually place them in your back pocket.

Acquire: Checkered and pencil-striped polo shirts – 2008 celebrates European style. Checks and pencil-stripes are in the boardrooms of Milan, London and Paris.

Retire: Diagonal-striped polo shirts – They never really looked good anyway.

Acquire: Low-waist straight cut jeans – Jeans are supposed to be comfortable and to allow you to move more freely. This cut also never goes out of style.

Retire: Skinny jeans – There can only be one Gino Padilla. Plus, you can’t wear them with boxers.

Acquire: Tailored, flat front pants – The overall objective is to look trim. And, since we come in all shapes and sizes, your tailor will give your pants the nips and tucks it needs.

Retire: Loose, pleated pants – Do you really need me to explain? Okay, one word – Daddy.

Acquire: Sneakers & Loafers – The right way to be (or look) sockless. In case you haven’t noticed yet, yes, preppy is back.
Retire: Flip-flops – A good percentage of male feet look just plain nasty! This was a painful realization after 2006 started the pambahay look. Thankfully, people are coming back to their senses.

Acquire: A leather briefcase – This is the only acceptable “man bag” as far as I’m concerned. This fits your work stuff and basic toiletry kit (see November’s issue for what this should minimally contain).

Retire: Clutch bags – Three letters – D.O.M. Okay, so you have a gun, but honestly, do you really think you can open your precious clutch bag and get your gun out in time when you’re under attack?

Acquire: A kick-ass dress watch – When choosing a dress watch look for elegance and style; not too flashy and sparkly. I know big, chunky watches are what’s happening right now, but since this will be an investment, choose something more classic and timeless (no pun there).

Retire: All other jewelry – Unless you’re a hip hop singer/rapper, then maybe. Remember, all that glitters is for your girlfriend.

Acquire: A leather planner – I don’t know about you, but the conventional planner still works best for me in organizing my schedule and for taking notes in meetings. Plus, you can’t stuff business cards and receipts in your PDA, can you?

Retire: PDAs – How many guys who have PDAs actually use them as planners? Most PDAs end up as glorified calculators. To those that do use them as organizers, then good for you. But to the majority that don’t, trade your PDA for a slim cellphone that can do e-mail and has a decent camera and you’re pretty much set.

Acquire: A Facebook Account – Developed by Harvard Alumni, this relatively new social networking site is loads better than its predecessors. Aside from a better layout, it has cool applications that can get addicting. The other nice thing about Facebook is that every update is relatively transparent to everyone, so there’s not a lot of crap going around.

Retire: Your Friendster Account – Friendster is what ICQ was for instant messaging. Leave this to the kids.

Rubber Suit

2008-04-13T08:09:00.000-07:00

Q: “I see a lot of magazines showing guys wearing sneakers with their suits. Is this acceptable?”
-- Richard, Pasay City

A: If you’re commuting to work in, say, New York City, then maybe you could pull this off without getting a lot of stares. Even then, you would have to change your shoes when you get to your workplace. But, if you’re in Manila, you will likely be wearing a suit because the occasion calls for something more dressy or business-appropriate. So, no, this is not acceptable. Stick to what we know works – a nice pair of Italian leather shoes.

Justin Timberlake can get away with it, yes, but this is the guy that dumped Cameron Diaz, he can’t always be right…

Who Pays?

2008-03-17T19:48:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’m getting married this year and would like to know if there is a rule about footing the bill for my entire male entourage’s outfit.”
- Patrick, San Juan

A: No real rule for this. It all boils down to your budget. Ideally, so you can have control over what your entourage uniformly wears and how you can set yourself apart from them, you pay for everything. In which case, the more economical but still elegant option is to go with barongs. Now, if Daddy ain’t helping with the bill, just provide the fabric and have them pay for the labor cost. It would be good to insist for them to all go to your tailor, though, so you still maintain control over the styles; ensuring that your suit or barong stands out vis-à-vis your entourage’s.

Comfortably Flat

2008-03-10T08:53:00.000-07:00

“I finally had my first flat front pants made. While they do look nicer, they’re not as comfortable as my pleated pants. Should I just accept this or was there something wrong with the way it was made?”
- Carlos, Alabang

A: I bet you sucked-in your stomach when you were being measured by your tailor, tsk, tsk… While flat front pants are not as roomy as pleated pants, they should not be uncomfortable. The thing with flat front pants is that the measurements need to be exact. There is very little room to accommodate unwanted and unexpected bulges; whether from gaining weight or as a result of arousal. So what you want to do is go back to your tailor to get yourself re-measured. This time wear boxer shorts and make sure that your shirt is tucked in while you are being measured. This will ensure your tailor captures the additional layers that can contribute to the snug fit of your pants. It’s also best to go after a full meal so he can consider the allowance he needs for when you have a full stomach.

Wrinkle-free Barong

2008-03-10T08:50:00.000-07:00

Q: “Do you have any tips for how not to wrinkle the back of my barong when I sit? It just looks awful when I walk around and the back is wrinkled and bunched up after sitting for a long time. ”
- Gerry, Manila

A: Finally! I thought I was the only one bothered by this. Yes, as a matter of fact, I have what seems to be a working solution to this problem. And, believe it or not, the idea came from what women have been doing for a long time. You know how women slide their hands on the backside of their skirts before sitting down? That’s to make sure their skirts down wrinkle and bunch up while sitting; retaining their shape when they stand. If you do the same thing with the backside of your barong before you sit you will find out that it works just as well. So now, you can even wear your barong when you drive! Next, we deal with how to prevent wrinkling your shirt from wearing a seatbelt.

Bloody Red

2008-02-13T06:44:00.000-08:00

No, this is not a paid post by Clear Dandruff Shampoo. It's just me venting on why everythning must be bloody red on Feb. 14.

1. Please, please, please fight the urge to wear red today. I mean, give the color a rest already; we already saw a lot of red last February 7, Chinese New Year.

2. Roses come in many different colors. Peach is probably the most romantic of them.

3. Stay away from restaurants decorated with red cut outs of hearts and boy-and-girl-leaning-forward-in-a-kissing-action. They will likely not have wine.

Men - I hope you made reservations. No decent restaurant will have an empty table for walk-ins.

Ladies - Be nice to your men. They skipped a lot of lunches to make this day a little special.

The Toilet Sink

2008-02-13T06:38:00.000-08:00

Q: “Please help me, wherever I go, I always make sure that I have my vanity kit with me, whether I go to the mall, to the beach, at work, or even when hanging out with my friends and co-workers. With this kit, I have my cologne, alcohol, baby powder, hair cream, tissue and face mirror. I also have in it some coins, my keys, a ball pen, extra tank top and sometimes, my umbrella. All of these things make my hand carry too bulky to be "hand" carried. Is there really the acceptable vanity kit for men? If yes, what should we have in it? Please advice. Thanks!”
- Lester, Amadeo, Cavite

A: Sounds more like you carry your bathroom around than just a vanity kit. I’m all for proper grooming and hygiene, but unless you’re thinking of becoming a barber that does house calls, I don’t suggest you tote around your man bag wherever you go. I’m also not a big fan of clutch bags. There’s something very D.O.M.ish about it. Stick to the standard travel toiletry bag and leave this in your work desk drawer. Your essentials include a toothbrush, a small tube of toothpaste, face wash, lip balm, alcohol and some paracetamol. I can’t see why you would need anything more than that.

Under a-Tuck

2008-02-03T17:06:00.000-08:00

Q: “I often see men (especially those who are wearing semi-fitted shirts) expose their belt buckle. Sometimes, they tuck in the front portion of their shirt to pop out their belts. Is this really necessary? I often see this "style" even from the male models of Manual. I thought they were just promoting the belts so they expose it. But I don't have any idea why others do that too.
-Lester, Amadeo, Cavite

A: I've been asked this question so many times I've forgotten if I've already answered it. Anyway, I guess one more time wouldn't hurt ...

This style is the modern take on the out-of-bed look and normally goes with wearing either big buckle belts or military belts on low-rise jeans. So, if your belt is forgettable (e.g. ordinary office leather belts) and (if) you are on the heavy side, save yourself the trouble -- either tuck or untuck. Besides, if you look at the label of this look, you will realize that it expired in 2007. Over and out!

It's a Date!

2008-01-20T23:42:00.000-08:00

Q: “It’s been a while since I’ve gone out on a real date. I finally had the guts to ask this girl that I like out. Any advice on what to wear that can help make a good impression?”
- Anthony, Marikina City

A: You failed to give me two critical information – (1) how old are you and (2) where are you going?

Always dress age-appropriate. The two extremes are young people trying to look older men (aka D.O.M.) trying their darndest to look hip and cool.
Where you’re planning to take her will obviously play an important part in your decision on what to wear. Some (but few) fancy shmancy restaurants have dress codes, which you will need to follow at a minimum.

If you’re in your 20’s and 30’s and are looking to go on a romantic dinner, say, iL Ponticello, capped with casual drink at, maybe, Fiamma, a slim, body cut long-sleeved polo shirt, with sleeves folded up just below your elbows, worn with a pair of low-rise, boot cut jeans, big buckle belt and leather shoes should do the trick.
In your 40’s? Go with a long-sleeved polo paired with dark grey, flat front slacks, silver buckle leather belt and your Bally or Florsheims.

Oh, and please, make sure you foot the bill.

Anyhow

2008-01-17T19:45:00.000-08:00

Okay, I know this has nothing to do with clothes and style, but I just have to share this with y'all. I got this flier from a new (and very no-frills) restaurant near our shop, wittingly called "Anyhow" (inihaw, get it?) so I tried it.

I didn't expect much so I was pleasantly surprised. I tried the tenderlion steak, you can't choose the doneness (i.e. it's only done one way), but it was tender enough. And, the gravy was very good! It can be "ulam" in itself. Yum! You have to try it to believe me.

What surprised me the most though was the sizzling litid. I do not normally eat "litid" or tendons, so I initially was not attracted to order it. But, the server said it was their specialty and insisted I gave it a try. My initial spoonful "tikim" was followed by another, and another, and another... there goes my cholesterol level. I still wouldn't eat litid -- EXCEPT if it's from Anyhow.

Now, just to stay in theme to what my blog is all about. What to wear when you go there? It's basically come-as-you-please. I'm still wondering though why their waiters wear cut-off jeans! I checked... they weren't on skates.

Waterproof Shoes

2008-01-02T23:44:00.000-08:00

Q: “My pair of shoes became faded after it got wet from the rain. Is there still hope for me to revive them? How do I prevent this from happening to my other leather shoes?”
- Michael, Makati City

A: For your question, I asked my friends at Hush Puppies for their expert advice. According to them shoes that have been soaked wet lose their shine because the natural moisture in the leather has evaporated with the water. To bring back the luster of leather, apply good leather moisturizer. Check that the moisturizer has natural oils like coconut and jojoba because synthetic ones are not absorbed into the leather and just accumulate at the surface. To prevent this problem from happening again, apply water and dirt repellent on your shoes before you go out and expose them to the elements. This coats your shoes with an invisible and breathable layer to protect it against moisture and dirt, preventing them from seeping into the leather.

Better yet, get yourself a pair of waterproof shoes, like the ones pictured from Hush Puppies. These have been pre-treated with water-repellent ingredients in the tanning process, which makes the leather repel moisture. They also have their seams sealed to avoid water from getting inside the shoes.

Tie Food

2007-12-29T05:53:00.000-08:00

Q: “What do you think of people who put their ties inside their shirts while eating? I get that they don’t want to accidentally stain their ties, but I think it looks weird.”
- James, Antipolo

A: In all my tie-wearing years, I’ve never had to resort to this practice to “protect” my tie from getting soiled. If you’re going to wear a tie you have to know how to behave in one. We’ve all seen comedies where a guy’s tie gets eating up by an office shredder or gets trapped in a car door. In both cases, the accident happens because the wearers forget that they’re wearing ties. Same goes for eating. If you are aware and careful enough, your shirt and your tie should be spared from any eating disorders. You wouldn’t wear a jacket just to protect your white shirt from getting stained, would you?

2007-12-27T18:12:00.000-08:00

Q: “Johnny Depp looks so cool in his fedora. Can I pull that look off here (in Manila)?”
- Lester, Sucat

A: I’m not going to give you any hope that you can pull this off without looking T.H. (trying hard) so just forget about it. I know, I know, it looks so good on magazines and on Capt. Jack Sparrow, but please… Some self-proclaimed fashionistas may think there’s nothing wrong with wearing a fedora, but you see, these are the same people who wear scarves when Ayala Ave. starts putting up its traditional Christmas decors.

If you’ve already bought yourself a fedora and are looking for when you can wear it, go to Intramuros, wear a barong Tagalog, and bring a cane.

Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year!

2007-12-27T18:10:00.000-08:00

Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! I promise to be more vigilant with my posts this coming year. 2007 was just so hectic!

Dr. White

2007-11-05T22:52:00.000-08:00

Q: “I’m a doctor and I have to wear a white coat while I’m on duty. Is there a way I can be more stylish or are doctors doomed to look like clones?”
- Dennis, Makati City

A: Treat your doctor’s coat like a white sport coat. For starters, nobody said that your coat should be made of gabardine or those cheap polyester blends. Consider light wool or a cotton-linen fabric and have your tailor cut it like a sport coat. White has made a real come back and there’s no reason why you can’t use this to your advantage. Like black, it is a versatile color that can pair with almost anything. “Almost” means staying away from pastel colored shirts (like yellow, pale green, etc.) so you don’t end up looking like a popsicle – could work well on kids though, if you’re a pediatrician.

Barong or Suit?

2007-11-05T01:59:00.000-08:00

Q: “I’m going to get married this year and have not decided on whether I should wear a barong or a suit. What do you think?”
- Vince, Pasig City

A: I’ve always liked the elegance of a well tailored piña barong Tagalog and how it pairs perfectly with any bride’s wedding gown. The barong tagalong is also better on pictures because the style is more timeless and less trendy vs. suits or tuxedos. If you don’t believe me, look at your Dad’s wedding picture. He was most likely wearing a suit and see how obviously old the picture looks just by the style of the suit (not to mention the hair). That’s how your wedding picture will look like 10 years down the road. On the practical side, a really nice barong tagalong will still cost much less than a suit. It will also make it easier for the rest of your male entourage to stay in theme.

Tucking Properly

2007-10-10T20:15:00.000-07:00

Q: “What’s the best way to tuck your shirt in? I always get that blousy, frumpy effect when I tuck mine in. My Dad tucks his shirts in his briefs, would you suggest I do the same?”
- Eric, Quezon City

A: There are several reasons why you can’t tuck your shirt in neatly:
1) It could be too big for you. I’m guessing that this is likely the reason why your shirt is billowing out of your pants. The best solution is to have some tailor made. If that’s too much for you, then at least have your off-the-rack shirts altered exactly to your body proportions before you wear them. This solves 90% of tucking-in problems.
2) It’s probably not designed to be tucked in. How do you know? Look at the hem. Shirts that have a straight hem are designed to be worn untucked (for those still saying “tuck out”, for God’s sake, please realize that “to tuck” necessarily means an inward cramming movement – sorry pet peeve moment there). Shirts with a u-shaped hem are meant to be tucked.

As for using your briefs to hold your shirt in, you better be sure you won’t be taking your pants off because that’s just plain nasty.

White Collared Worker

2007-09-05T23:56:00.001-07:00

Q: “What do you call those dress shirts where the cuffs and collar are white while the rest of the shirt is a different color/fabric?”
- Lito, Quezon City

A: I don’t know if there’s a real name for them, but I just refer to them as white collared dress shirts. I’ve heard other people come to my shop and refer to this shirt as a banker’s shirt, probably because it is mostly worn by people who work in conservative corporate attire environments like banks, consulting firms and law offices. It’s also a popular dress shirt among CEOs because it has a very top brassy, old rich kind of feel and looks best under a well tailored suit and typically with French cuffs. I wouldn’t suggest this shirt for very young upstarts because, for me, this is the kind of shirt you have to earn to wear.

Suit Separates

2007-09-05T23:49:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’m going to be travelling and was thinking of wearing a khaki blazer with my khaki pants, but they’re not of the same shade of khaki. Is this okay?”
- Stan, Greenhills

A: At the risk of people thinking there’s something wrong with your suit, it might be better for you to either wear another sport coat or maybe pair your khaki blazer with jeans. It also looks more relaxed and contemporary.

A Short Comment on the Malu Fernandez Bruhaha

2007-08-28T19:09:00.001-07:00

Since Malu had already publicly apologized for the hurtful things she said in her "From Boracay to Greece" article, I think the Editors-in chief of the two publications she wrote for (Manila Standard and People Asia) should also issue their respective apologies for not doing their jobs.

As EICs they should have prevented Ms. Fernandez's article from being published owing the potential sensitivities that it will touch on; style of writing not withstanding.

To the Editors-in cheif of Manila Standard and People Asia, crawl out of your rocks!

Jeans & Socks

2007-08-23T20:18:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’m wearing jeans and brown leather shoes. What color should my socks be?”
- Alvin, Greenhills

A: Shades of brown, grey or navy will all work. A lot of people make the mistake of thinking that wearing jeans automatically meant white athletic socks. If you’re wearing sneakers or rubber shoes, yes. Leather shoes, NO.

Watch Your Watch

2007-08-01T20:56:00.000-07:00

Q: “Is there a rule about whether your leather watch should also match your shoes?”
- Melvin, Mandaluyong

A: Strictly speaking, they don’t have to; although, for dressier occasions I personally think it just looks a little bit more put together if all your leather accessories (belt, shoes and watch) matched.

If you have either black or dark brown leather watches, I think there’s really not much to fuss about. These two colors go with pretty much anything. However, leather watches with colored straps (like blue, mustard, etc.), work better with casual clothes, where color pairing and matching aren’t as critical.

Creative Black Tie

2007-07-22T20:55:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’ve been invited to this event that says ‘Creative Black Tie’ as the dress code on the invitation. What in God’s name is that?”
- Steve, Makati City

A: The “Creative Black Tie” dress code just means that you are being given license to be a little bit more contemporary and trendy with your tux or dark suit. Usually a solid black dress shirt minus the tie works well for events that call for this dress code. If you want to play it up a bit and be more, well, creative, consider a velvet suit or tux. I’m glad you took the extra step of trying to find out what this dress code really meant instead of making the wrong assumptions. Believe it or not, some have interpreted this to literally mean decorating their black ties.

Not So Skinny Jeans

2007-07-16T19:47:00.000-07:00

Q: “Skinny jeans are the ‘in’ thing now; but, I’m not exactly skinny. Are skinny jeans really just for skinny people?”
- Erick, Loyola Heights

A: Umm... If you’re not skinny, then they’re just plain tight jeans. For guys with average builds, low-rise boot cut jeans help create a slimming look.

Hot Suit

2007-07-08T18:04:00.000-07:00

"Thanks for the new article, Sartoman. Nice and helpful as always.

BTW, I've been meaning to ask you. What makes a business suit a "summer suit" -- one that is more appropriate to be worn during the summer. Are summer suits supposed to be without lining or are they supposed to use very light material/fabric? Would appreciate your view on this. Thanks."

-- Jason, Japan

A: There are two Es that generally drive what we wear -- Event and Environment. For suits, the Event influences the Cut & Style of the suit, while Environment dictates the Fabric that you will choose.

Summer-friendly fabrics include Linen, Light Wool and Cotton. Personally, I like linen because it is both laidback and stylish. It's admittedly more challenging to wear because of its wrinkly nature, but that's also its charm; definitely not for the obsessive compulsive corporate drone.

When temperatures reach mid-30 Celsius, your skin acts like Post-it Notes with the extra amount of sweat it produces to cool itself down. So, your summer suit should be a little more roomy. And, since linen suits are typically loose-fitting, they allow for good ventilation on a hot day. This one pictured here from Banana Republic is a classic light khaki linen number. If you're going to a tailor to have one made ask him to use Italian or Irish linen as these give good body and are relatively less wrinkly vs. ordinary linen.

Oh, and make sure you add an extra layer of deodorant/anti-perspirant for good measure.

Speedo Limit

2007-07-03T18:13:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’ve noticed that more dudes are wearing Speedos in Boracay. Are board shorts out? ”
- John, Pasay City

A: Okay, so Daniel Craig in Casino Royale made the ladies drool in that skimpy number. But, reality check people… not everyone has killer abs or a swimmer’s build. Seriously, I don’t get why some guys think that wearing a man-bikini is a chick magnet. On the contrary, unless you’re reeking with mojo like Mr. Bond, a skimpy Speedo can cause more damage to your manhood than it can enhance it.

If you want to show off the body you worked so hard in the gym for, remember that you’re upper body is just as exposed when you wear board shorts. Unless your objective is to show off your thighs, then by all means, wear your water-proof briefs.

Honeymoon Jitters

2007-06-26T01:37:00.000-07:00

Q: “I’m getting married soon and, this may sound a little unusual, but I’m stressing about what I should wear to bed on our wedding night. I don’t want to turn her off with my usual pambahay attire. Any suggestions?”
- Oliver, New Manila

A: If your “usual pambahay” (home clothes) translates to Disney pajamas, then I can see why this would be a concern. Those of us who are married can probably relate to how you feel. While the excitement is there to get the wedding reception over and done with so that we can get to the real party, there is a small feeling of anxiety to make sure we don’t do anything to mess things up. And, wearing the wrong thing can do just that. The top answer in a survey among newly married women on what sleepwear would have made them fane sickness on their wedding night was seeing their new husband in a loose tank top (sando). Showing up for bed in your jammies tells her you’re ready to sleep – “No action tonight, Dear.”

The unanimous choice for the sexiest, failsafe men’s sleepwear – a fitted shirt and boxer brief combination. Oh, and what’s comforting is that she’s probably worrying about what to wear to bed too.

My suggestion … as your wedding gifts, give each other the sleepwear that turns you on. Leather does not count as sleepwear.

Who Wears the Pants?

2007-06-06T02:21:00.000-07:00

Just recently, I met with a new client who went to my shop with the simple objective of having pants made. He had seen the work we did for his friend and liked the way we were able to get his buddy out of his 80’s style inertia. So, he figured it was time for him to invest on some tailored clothes as well, starting with the easiest and simplest article –- pants.

What he thought would be a measure-and-run session ended up to be an almost hour-long orientation on the details to consider when having a pair of pants made. Here’s a summary of the check list we went through:

 FABRIC: Yes, there are other fabrics aside from khakis and denims. For office and smart casual dressing, favor light wool. For the first few pieces, stick to the basic shades of grey, navy and black. If you’re not up to dry cleaning and want a low maintenance fabric, polyester blends are what you are looking for. If you’re going to the beach or looking for something more casual, have a pair of linen pants made. This is the perfect fabric for the summer and goes well with leather sandals.

 PLEATS: For those who haven’t noticed yet, pleats, those tucks or folds found on the front part of pants, are OUT… for now at least. While pleats serve a practical purpose of allowing for extra room and movement, they are generally not flattering to the figure. They can cause your pants to balloon, if not pressed properly, adding an illusion of added pounds or unflattering bulges. If you’re still having anxiety attacks at the thought of wearing unpleated pants, take the baby step of having single-pleated pants made instead. Before you know it, you’ll be ready to retire those Sperry topsiders soon too.

 WAISTBAND: There are generally two ways to execute your pants’ waistband -- Center-button or Overlapping. I prefer the overlapping waistbands for a more contemporary look. I also find that this style is best for flat front pants.

 BELT LOOP: Make sure you tell your tailor if you’re going to wear your pants with a belt that’s wider than average. This will make sure he adjusts your pants’ belt loops wider than the standard 1 to 1½ inches width.

 SIDE POCKETS: I bet you never thought there were options when it came to pockets did you? Well, there are basically two styles to choose from: Continental or On-seam/slide pockets. Continental pockets are those that are cut on the front part of your pants, almost parallel to your waistband. This style is also more contemporary and stylish, but less functional. It’s just a little bit more difficult to reach into continental pockets, especially if you’re pants fit exactly to your body. If you’re the type who uses your pocket a lot, like me, I suggest you go with the traditional on-seam/slide pocket.

 BACK POCKET: Decide on one, two or none. Typically, dress pants only have one. Apart from your wallet, what else would you put in our back pocket anyway?

 CUFFS: I’m not a big fan of cuffs largely because I don’t like the way they break the clean silhouette that a good-fitting pair of pants creates. Having no cuffs also creates a vertical illusion; perfect for the average 5’6” tall Pinoy. Should you prefer cuffs, they are typically 1¼ inches wide and are more appropriate for casual pants.

 BREAK: And lastly, pay attention to how your pants break. This refers to how the ends of the legs of your pants fold when they hit your shoes. The break needs to be subtle. A large break makes you look like you borrowed a taller friend’s pair of pants, while having no break, makes you look like you had a Cherifer™ or Growee™ overdose.

As we wound up our discussion, Mr. New Client leans forward and whispers, “Oh, and do you think you can give me a butt with my new pants?” Mind you, this is a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) to which the answer is, “I can only work with what the Almighty has given you.” And if that’s not enough, my shop is 10 min. away from Dra. Belo’s clinic.

Blog Updates

2007-05-21T23:07:00.000-07:00

To those who wrote me asking why I have not posted anything for May... Sorry guys, I've been travelling and have had minimal internet access. I'm back and will be posting answers to the questions I received soon.

A special thanks to to those that had suits and office clothes made at my shop after reading this blog. I hope you love your new clothes!

Sarto

Sport Coat vs. Suit Jacket

2007-04-25T02:50:00.000-07:00

Q: “This is something that’s always confused me… What’s the difference between a sport coat and a suit jacket? Oh and by the way, how do I get a tailored suit from your shop?”
- Jonathan, New Manila

A: The main difference is that suit jackets come with matching pants while a sport coats (or blazers) are designed and created to be worn independently. I can understand your confusion because a lot of designers’ men’s lines are showcasing “suit separates” to improve the versatility and wearability of their couture. Dark colored, two-button, single-breasted suit jackets (e.g. navy blue or black) are safe to wear as a blazer paired with jeans. I’d be more careful with mismatching pin-striped suits; in fact, it’s best not to. Other suit jackets that can be passed off as sport coats are those made of corduroy, plaid and tweeds. When an office dress code says “sport coat”, that just means you don’t have to wear a suit with matching jacket and pants. E-mail me and let’s talk about making a suit for you.

Tie-Pod

2007-04-25T02:47:00.000-07:00

Q: “I am an iPod junkie; I listen to it even at work. My problem is where to put it. My phone already occupies one of my pants’ pockets. If I put it on the other pocket, my pants already bulk up. Right now, I end up putting it on the table or just holding it when I’m on the move. Any ideas? ”
- Marco, Pasig City

A: Thomas Pink, makers of bespoke dress shirts, offers an ingenious solution to your problem. They’ve come out with a limited tie collection that includes a hidden pocket at the back for the ubiquitous iPod. Although, while I give them props for this innovation, I can’t help but think of how uncomfortable it must be to have something constantly tugging on your neck. I haven’t been able to find this locally so the best place to check it out is through the Thomas Pink site: http://www.thomaspink.co.uk. Personally, I find that my shirt’s breast pocket works just fine for small gadgets.

Male Indulgences

2007-04-10T20:20:00.000-07:00

For the longest time, a big buckle belt has always been on my To Buy list; the perfect accessory for low-rise, boot cut pair of jeans. While there are many out there, I was looking for a belt with a less Brokeback-looking buckle. I was overjoyed when I finally found one. But, is a 2.5-inch wide strip of genuine Italian leather with a big matte silver frame buckle worth almost P 4,000? Hell yeah! This was my most recent indulgence. My search was over.

Did I feel guilty with my purchase? Not the least bit. I believe that, once in a while, we have to reward ourselves with life’s little luxuries. After all, money is useless until it is spent. So here’s my Top 10 list of what I think every guy should indulge on when it comes to style and grooming:

1. Italian Leather Shoes
This is where quality comes with a real price tag. While it may set you back anywhere from P 7,000 to P 25,000, a pair of real Italian leather shoes completes any outfit perfectly. What you are paying for are style and durability. Forget about comfort. I don’t think commuters are part of Mr. Ferragamo’s target market.

2. Custom Tailored Dress Shirts
If you still haven’t discovered the pleasure of wearing a dress shirt (a.k.a. long-sleeved polo) that’s constructed to the unique contours of your body, you’re totally missing out. Oh, and the added benefit – a trim silhouette from being able to tuck your shirt in without the sloppy, blousy effect.

3. Custom Tailored Suit
Any self-respecting man needs to have a bespoke suit in his clothing arsenal. Sure, an Armani will always be an Armani. But, what I’m talking about is a perfectly tailored suit that hugs your shoulders and gives you a slimmer more streamlined look. Keep in mind that most designer suits are made for Caucasian body proportions. Since Asians are generally shorter and more slender, the chances of a suit will be too large is higher when you buy off the rack. So, go out and find yourself a tailor. There’s no substitute!

4. Piña Barong Tagalog
A piña barong has a way of making anyone who wears it look like a respectable, self-made man. Don’t ask me why; that’s its magic. You don’t have to be a groom to own one. Leave the jusi barongs to students.

5. Dress Watch
I asked some women what they notice first when they check out how a guy dresses and the #1 answer – their watch. Women have a natural radar for bling, so this comes as no surprise. Personally, I find leather strap watches more stylish than those with metal bracelets. I’ve had my eye on Bulgari’s Assioma for some time now; just a little more skipped lunches …

6. Sign Pen
Do, this… borrow a Mont Blanc pen from a friend and sign your name with it. Feel the way your hand glides effortlessly on the paper and discover that your signature can actually look like it’s from someone who makes important decisions.

7. Razor
You’re probably surprised to find such a mundane item like a shaving razor in this list, but I have gotten a lot of questions about achieving the perfect shave; and there’s no better place to start. A lot of guys scrimp on their razors thinking that anything with a blade will do. Wrong! Get yourself the Gillette Mach 3 Turbo and understand what I’m talking about.

8. Skin Care Products
What do Keanu Reeves, Johnny Depp, Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise have in common? They’re all over 40 and they look a lot younger than a most of us! The secret –- a regular skin care regimen. Exfoliate and moisturize! L’Oreal’s Vita Lift makes sure that I don’t go to my high school reunion looking like one of my former teachers.

9. Underwear
I often hear guys ask why anyone would spend so much on underwear when no one sees it anyway. I think those that think this way miss the whole point of wearing underwear. Underwear is both functional and sensual and no other brand understands that more than Calvin Klein; the only brand worth exposing when wearing low-rise jeans.

10. Jeans
The #2 things women check out in guys after watches – our ass (although I have a feeling this is really #1)! And, nothing showcases this “asset” more than a pair of perfect-fitting jeans. Visit Ino Caluza and get yourself a pair of custom-made Viktor jeans that shows off your booty!

Defining "Smart Casual"

2007-03-26T03:20:00.000-07:00

“Smart Casual” just means dress to look smart and respectable, even if you’re not the sharpest tool in the shed. Note the term isn’t “geek casual”, so looking smart does not translate to looking like the Google founders pre-public listing (yes, money buys you your personal stylist). Simply “casual” dress code is another way of saying “dress comfortably”.

Most style guides were written with the U.S. corporate dress code in mind, so you will find that “smart casual” based on these write-ups are typically a sport coat or suit jacket worn over a button down shirt without a tie and paired with jeans or khakis. Yes, that looks cool but it isn’t the most comfortable for our climate. Wear it here and you may find yourself being ushered to the stage and given the microphone when you get to the event you have been invited to. Here’s something that’s more appropriate for the Filipino male.

YOUR SHIRT

Short sleeved or long sleeved shirts are both acceptable. Smart casual dressing typically rules out sport shirts since these are reserved for simply “casual” dressing. The safest is to choose plain colored shirts. If your event is happening during the day, opt for light colored, short sleeved shirts while dark colored and patterned long sleeved shirts are preferred for evening invitations.

“Can’t I wear printed shirts? Traditional shirts make me look so stiff.” Okay, let’s get things straight (no, not your sexual orientation)… stiffness, (wipe that thought off, we’re talking about clothes) is not caused by the type of shirt you use. It’s the attitude you project when you’re not comfortable and confident with what you’re wearing. The only way smart “traditional” shirts can make you look stiff is if your maid put too much starch on them. Don’t have time to pick the right pattern? Then a plain black shirt is your safest bet. Tucked or untucked? Your call.

YOUR PANTS

Pants are really simple – unpleated, tailored-fit and no cuffs.

Pleats are out – for now. (If you’re asking why, you’re probably still wearing double-breasted suits.) Pleats, the folds on the front of your pants, were created to provide more flexibility. On the down side, they can make you bulge if your pants don’t fit correctly or if they were not ironed properly. For a neater, slimmer look, unpleated pants are the way to go.

The fit of your pants is critical. If you don’t have custom-tailored pants, invest on some; start with 3 basic colors -- grey, black and navy blue. Tip: Don’t go to your Dad’s tailor.

Cuffs break the length of your pants and can make your legs look shorter. It also takes away from the smooth, clean silhouette that perfect-fitting unpleated pants create. So for us who have been eating Star™ rice and are still taking 1-6-12 vitamins, cuffs off!

For slightly more dressed down events, pairing your shirts with khaki chinos (for daytime) and dark jeans are also acceptable.

YOUR SHOES

Loafers or slip-ons complete your look. Black typically goes well with dark colored pants, while brown loafers pair well with brown slacks, khakis and light grey. This is also a good opportunity to wear your boots; no not the cowboy type.

Pointy, slim shoes compliment your tailored-fit pants. They say you can tell the type of man by his shoes. Don’t worry, wearing a pair of loafers does not make you one.

Button-down Collars

2007-03-16T02:03:00.000-07:00

Q: “If I wear my polo shirt with button-down collars without a tie do I need to button the collars down?”
- Chris, Kuala Lumpur

A: Didn’t have time to do the laundry on your other polo shirts, I assume? Let me throw back the question to you -- Where are you going? If you’re off to meet some friends for a casual lunch or a relaxed night out, then sure, leaving your collars unbuttoned is acceptable. It says, “Let’s forget about work for a while.” However, for occasions or events where you need to keep a neat appearance and look a little more credible or trustworthy, say, if you’re meeting your girlfriend’s parents for the first time or if you’re going to a semi-formal business function and will wear a jacket over your shirt, then go the extra mile and button those collars down. It says, “You can trust me with your wealth and your daughter.”

All Blued Up

2007-03-16T01:59:00.000-07:00

Q: “My girlfriend has been telling me to wear something that’s not blue. She says everything I own is blue. What should I keep in mind in choosing colors?”
- Color Me Bad, Pasay City

A: It’s not really very hard to work with other colors. The thing to keep in mind in choosing colors is knowing your skin tone. If you’re on the dark side, colors that will look good on you are light colors such as pale pink, white, gray and khaki. These colors provide a good complementary contrast with your complexion. You will want to stay clear of dark hues like chocolate brown, red and olive green since these create monotony in your overall appearance. For those with fairer complexions, colors that go well with your skin tone are burgundy, beige, brown and black. Avoid bright colors like orange, red and yellow because this creates an overpowering contrast with fair skin tones and can make it appear like your clothes are floating on you. This is especially true if you are pale or very white. Now, I hope that when your girlfriend said everything you owned was blue it did not include your briefs.

Pairing Non-leather Belts

2007-03-07T02:09:00.000-08:00

Q: “Your belt and shoes should match, right? Does this rule apply with cloth or military belts?”
- Loophole, Quezon City

A: I hope you’re not a military serviceman who is trying to make his uniform more fashionable. Outside the army, military-style belts are generally worn to accessorize a casual outfit; where you would typically be wearing sneakers. The rules are, therefore, just as relaxed. The thing to remember with military-style belts is that it should fit nicely with the overall color coordination of your outfit. You can actually take the color cue from anything that you’re wearing. To make it easy and fail-safe for you, match your belt with either the dominant color of your shirt or sneakers. Still too complicated? A white military belt goes with (almost) everything.

To Tuck or Not To Tuck

2007-03-07T02:06:00.000-08:00

Q: “I’ve been seeing a lot of men wearing their shirts half or partially tucked. I find it sloppy. Is this acceptable?”
- Tucker, Parañaque

A: Let me guess… You’re over 30 aren’t you? Yes, it is sloppy, but that’s the look; just like out-of-bed hair. And, it’s also not for everyone. This style was introduced so as not to waste a perfectly nice belt by hiding it under an untucked shirt. So, if your belt is forgettable (e.g. ordinary office belts), then there’s really no point. I don’t suggest anyone get into the habit of doing this though because, like any other fashion trend, it will go from in to out faster that you can say pleated pants! The hard part is knowing when this look transitions from cool and trendy to being so 2005. So save yourself the worry -- either tuck or untuck.

Work Wardrobe

2007-02-15T23:16:00.000-08:00

"I am a fresh graduate and I just landed my first job as an Assistant Product Manager in a multinational company. Our company is still one of those with a “business attire” dress code. Can you help me put together my office wardrobe without going broke?”
-- Yippee Yuppie, San Juan

First, congratulations on getting out of the unemployment line and for getting what seems like a good job! Way to go!

Let me guess, the only other time you probably had to wear something that resembles corporate attire was when you had to do your marketing plan presentation or your thesis defense, right? And, you likely borrowed your Dad’s tie and wore it over a plain white or blue long-sleeved polo, loosely tucked in a pair of pleated black cotton pants. No, I’m not psychic. It’s just what I see every year, over the past 8 years, of sitting in as part of the panel of judges for students’ final marketing presentations.

In answering your question, I will propose that you treat your clothes as an investment rather than as an expense. With this outlook, you will want to get the best value for your money vs. just looking for cheap --which results in bigger expenses over time, since you will likely need to repair or replace them much faster than good quality items.

You don’t have to buy everything in one go. Gradually build up your wardrobe and favor classic styles (e.g. solid colored and vertical striped shirts) vs. those that are trendy (e.g. diagonal stripes) to minimize the need to update your clothes.

So how do you balance good quality with great value? Rediscover tailor-made clothes! Find yourself a good tailor with reasonable rates.

The cost of tailored clothes can even go lower if you take some effort to buy your own fabric in iconic Divisoria or Kamuning. Why not just buy off the rack? Well, if you look around you will see that most good-quality retail shirts don’t sell below P 1,300.00 and pants will likely fall within the P 1,500 to P 2,000 range. Consider too that you will likely spend additional money having them altered to fit you better.

Now for your wardrobe mix, here’s what I recommend for a typical 5-day work week:

TOP - Start with 3 long-sleeved polo shirts. Since you probably already have a white long-sleeved shirt, pick another solid colored shirt (maybe light lavender, if you already have blue), one striped and one checkered shirt. With your next paycheck, have 2 white short-sleeved linen (a.k.a. “gusot mayaman”) barongs made. Having this kind of mix will allow you to space your clothes in such a way that people don’t remember when you repeat a shirt.

TIE – Since most good-quality ties won’t go below P 500.00, maybe buy one tie a month until you have at least 5 ties in your arsenal. Again, pick tie patterns that are less trendy, like stripes and solids, so they last you for years. Tip: I built my tie inventory by asking family and close friends to give ties to me on my birthdays or Christmas.

PANTS – Since you will likely already have a pair of black pants, add another 3 pairs – gray, navy blue and brown. These colors are neutral and versatile enough to pair with any of the tops described above and with either black or brown shoes. Look for polyester blend material so you don’t have to spend extra on dry-cleaning.

Accessories? Get regularized first, and then write me again.

Smashing On Court

2007-02-15T22:52:00.000-08:00

“I’m a little late getting into the badminton craze. One thing I noticed is that most people seem to spend some time (and money) on making sure they are well put-together on the court. What should I wear to blend in?”
-- Rookie, Pasig City

The objective in any sport is to win, right? So, don’t be a total LOSER by spending a ton of money on your gear and outfit before you even learn to play the sport decently. The next time you play badminton, watch how the people you describe to be too “well put-together” play and, chances are, they suck big time! So, advice #1 is to first learn the basics of the game before you spend most of your time wanting to look like badminton’s Andre Agassi -- Nathan Robertson. Now, assuming you can already hit that shuttlecock without raising one leg while pursing your lips, here are a few helpful tips in putting together your badminton attire.

APPAREL

There are two things to consider in dressing for badminton: comfort and movement.

Most badminton courts are virtual gas chambers. The wind is the shuttlecock’s worst enemy, so most courts are designed to keep it out. And, this means it’s hot hot hot! So, dress light. For your shirt, opt for those made with Dri-fit material to keep your sweat away from your body during play. Light cotton shirts also work well. Oh, and please make sure you bring at least 2 change shirts so you don’t end up looking like you played under the rain.

Badminton, as you probably already know, is a sport that demands a lot of agility and quick reflexes; so what you wear should allow for flexibility and sudden movements. Your shirt should not fit too tight so you can move with ease. Wear shorts that are slightly above the knees in length to allow you to stretch and gather momentum for those jump smashes. Reserve your oversized or baggy shorts for basketball. These types of shorts cover your knees, making it difficult to lunge and go for those drop shots. Under no circumstance should you show up in cycling shorts! This does not need explaining.

SOCKS

No-show, ankle high socks (a.k.a. peds) are best. They not only keep your legs much cooler vs. wearing those shin-high crew sports socks, they also
do not make you look like you’re turning 40 soon.

SHOES

Probably the next most important gear after a decent racket is your pair of badminton shoes. Ever since badminton grew in popularity, there are now more cool-looking indoor court shoes, like Mizuno’s Wave Smash SR model, which is made with high grade rubber non-marking gum sole for great traction and stability on
Taraflex courts. And, this shoe cares for your feet too by giving the right level of cushioning and leaving them cool and dry during play.

It is also important that you bring a pair of slippers or an extra pair of rubber shoes to change to after your game because wearing your badminton shoes outside the court will damage their rubber gum soles.

Combine looking good and playing well and badminton can change your life. It got me a wife!

Grooming the Groom

2007-02-15T22:42:00.000-08:00

"I am engaged to be married this September. My wife is, of course, going to wear a designer gown and I can’t wait to see her looking her best and being the envy of all the single guys on our big day. I am partial to wearing a barong but I want to stand out too! How do I not get drowned in the sea of barongs? Your suggestion would be helpful."
-- Well Groomed, Quezon City

It’s good to know that you belong to the new breed of grooms, where it seems that you are as involved in and excited about your wedding as your fiancé. It used to be that the guy’s role in wedding planning was just to write the check and show up on that faithful day. Having worked with many groom-to-be’s over the years I’ve noticed this fascinating and welcome evolution of how men are now as into looking their best for their weddings as their future brides are. I suppose this all happened when men discovered the importance of moisturizers, spa treatments and planning their wardrobes. Thank you, David Beckham.

Now to your question on how to be a stand-out, barong-wearing groom... let me just get this out of the way – DO NOT wear a colored barong! Your bride may look like she’s getting married to a member of the choir.

The elegance of your barong depends on two critical elements -- fabric and style.

As the groom you should opt for an intricately embroidered pure piña or piña silk barong fabric. There are fabric suppliers that can customize the embroidery to add to the uniqueness of your fabric. Piña and piña-silk fabrics would set you back anywhere from P 4,000 to P 8,000 depending on the embroidery.

Have your and your groomsmen’s barongs made by one tailor so you can have a hand in choosing the type of fabric and style your groomsmen’s barong will have. They should typically be less expensive than yours. For example, if you are using piña-silk your groomsmen can choose to use piña-jusi blend or plain jusi fabric.

On style, don’t be afraid to play around with the collar, cuffs and buttons. Regardless of the collar, I personally favor French cuffs, where your buttons match the cufflinks you will use on your cuffs.

A Mandarin Barong Tagalog is also a stylish way to be different.

Many forget that a wedding is the Groom’s day too. And, oftentimes, the Groom needs to be reminded that the old practice of leaving wedding preparations to the bride-to-be and just showing up on the day itself died with the double-breasted suit.

Traveling for Business - What to Wear

2007-02-15T22:32:00.000-08:00

A question I've been frequently asked is what do I wear and pack for a short business trip?

Here’s a good principle that’s helped me plan my wardrobe whenever I travel: “Always dress for arrival, not departure.” If you remember that, then everything else follows. Let’s break this down into the two “E’s” to consider when traveling – Event and Environment.

Event
Since you mentioned you were going on a business trip take some time to find out what the prescribed business attire is in the country you are going to. Do they wear suits or just a shirt and tie? Save on ironing cost and time by bringing long-sleeved shirts made of wrinkle-resistant material. Marks & Spencer has a lot of these. If you’re bringing a suit, choose a black one for daytime and night time versatility.

While in transit, I like to wear a suit jacket paired with jeans. This outfit gives me the comfort and style of the modern businessman. It also gets you better attention from flight attendants and airport personnel. On the practical side, wearing the suit jacket saves me the problem of not crumpling it in my suitcase.

It’s also good to be ready with one set of formal attire (black tie and a white dress shirt) in case your host decides to take you out to a fancy dinner or a dressy event.

On shoes, I tend to bring only two pairs. I wear a pair of rubber-soled loafers during the trip and for going around, and pack one pair of dressier lace-up shoes for business meetings and evening socials. If you’re the type that hits the hotel gym during your free time, then bring a pair of rubber shoes; they’re light anyway. You won’t need slippers since most reputable hotels give their guests a complimentary pair.

Environment

Check the weather of the country you are going to. You will need to make room in your luggage for a sweater or a jacket if you’re going to countries with <20oC temperature. If you are going to a very hot country like India or the Middle East, where I hear it is 40oC under the shade, bring clothes made of light material like linen and cotton. Good luck with ironing though.

And finally, I feel I need to touch on what NOT to wear during your trip, while in transit: faded denim jacket (unless you want to be stopped and interrogated to no end), flip flops and shorts (unless the plane you are taking has sand) and clothes with the brand screaming as part of the design (the surest way NOT to get a seat upgrade).