The Real World

Sarto,

First of all, your site is an invaluable resource for us men. I've learned things about dressing up that I've never quite understood before. I have a few questions since I'm about to enter the corporate world. My college days were spent mostly in shorts, jeans, sneakers, and t-shirts. I wasn't the typical stylish guy back then but I want to have an improved image now that I'm about to work. I find myself unsure of what to buy to at least have a closet with the "essentials". Can you recommend brands of long-sleeved shirts that you prefer? I'm looking specifically for those crisp, white dress shirts that I see on TV but I can't seem to find one. How about neckties? I'm seeing inexpensive brands in department stores but I was wondering if it would be better to invest on those nice silk ties. Finally, is it advisable for me to have my pants custom-made or just stick with off-the-rack items? I hope you can suggest brands that are within the range of a typical worker earning 20-25k. Thanks a lot.

Michael

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Dressing up is not primarily about brands. It's about quality and fit. Of course, the generally accepted belief is that branded clothes tend to do well on quality. But, good fit is not always a function of the price tag.

If you're lucky to have a medium build with mannequinesque proportions, then retail is still the best and probably the more affordable option. Your mentioned income will be able to afford you classic shirts from Marks & Spencer and Zara.

However, if you have a tricky body build (vertically or horizontally challenged), then visit a good tailor with approximately 2. 5 yards of pure Japanese or Swiss cotton fabric. Be ready to spend somewhere from P 1,800 to P 2,500 for well-tailored shirts. But, I assure you, once you get the right tailor, you will be spoiled with the right-fitting shirts.

There are a lot of option for affordable ties -- those from Tie Line, Top Man and Zara are among those that won't break the bank.

On pants, I'm still for tailored, unpleated pants.

I've mentioned this before... clothes are an investment. Especially for someone who's just starting out, the first impressions you will create will have a big impact on how your career will progress (or not).

Enjoy the real world!

Wash & Wear

Q: "I'd like to ask if it's hygienic to re-wear the same pants for work the following day? I'm asking because I did it for most of my internship since I don't have enough pants to rotate for the rest of the week. So I tended to wear the same pants for two consecutive days."

----- CK (via e-mail)

A: If your pants are made from wool and are lined, these are likely dry-clean only pants; therefore, it is not advisable to wash them frequently. Dry-cleaning pants frequently will lead to fabric thinning, fraying and causes those spots that are shiny (from the extreme heat of the cleaner's pressing).

However, if your pants are made from polyester or rayon blend, then these are safe for ordinary machine washing and do not need to be dry-cleaned.

I'm assuming you work in an air-conditioned office and are mostly indoors. So, you would not be exposed to a lot of dust and dirt anyway. Which means, you really only need to wash your pants maybe 2x/week for machine washable pants, and once a month for dry-clean only pants.

If you soil or stain your pants, spot-cleaning is typically recommended. For tips on how to treat several common stains, visit the Tide website at www.tide.com.

Tailored Bulge?

Q: I am now a convert to flat front pants, thanks to you. However, I noticed that my front pockets bulge more noticeably vs. when I wore pleated pants. Was this my tailor’s mistake or is this really how flat front pants are?

-- Jacob, Marikina City

A: Flat front pants, if tailored well, should give you a slim silhouette. Yes, they are less forgiving than pleated pants when it comes to hiding bulges. While the tailoring of your pants could be one reason, the more likely cause is that you’re just putting way too many things in your pockets to begin with. If I were to venture a guess, you’re probably stuffing your front pockets with a whole bunch of keys, coins and your cellphone; or worse, your Blackberry. You didn’t notice this when you were wearing pleated pants because pleats expand and cause your pants to balloon to accommodate the extra weight (including your own). But, since the MC Hammer look is so over, your decision to wear unpleated pants need to be coupled with a small change in old habits as well. Pockets are not built-in bags. You only really need to bring maybe 2 keys with you – your car’s and the key to your office or house. The other pocket should just have a hanky and a money clip. As for your your cellphone, well they’re are getting slimmer and slimmer now, so maybe it’s time to harass your carrier to change your handset.

I can’t imagine you would need to put anything more in your pockets. But, if you’re the type that must carry a lot of “essentials then maybe it’s time to think like Batman – ditch the pants and trade it for a kick-ass belt.

Comfortably Flat

“I finally had my first flat front pants made. While they do look nicer, they’re not as comfortable as my pleated pants. Should I just accept this or was there something wrong with the way it was made?”
- Carlos, Alabang



A: I bet you sucked-in your stomach when you were being measured by your tailor, tsk, tsk… While flat front pants are not as roomy as pleated pants, they should not be uncomfortable. The thing with flat front pants is that the measurements need to be exact. There is very little room to accommodate unwanted and unexpected bulges; whether from gaining weight or as a result of arousal. So what you want to do is go back to your tailor to get yourself re-measured. This time wear boxer shorts and make sure that your shirt is tucked in while you are being measured. This will ensure your tailor captures the additional layers that can contribute to the snug fit of your pants. It’s also best to go after a full meal so he can consider the allowance he needs for when you have a full stomach.