Q: “I’ve been invited to this event that says ‘Creative Black Tie’ as the dress code on the invitation. What in God’s name is that?”
- Steve, Makati City
A: The “Creative Black Tie” dress code just means that you are being given license to be a little bit more contemporary and trendy with your tux or dark suit. Usually a solid black dress shirt minus the tie works well for events that call for this dress code. If you want to play it up a bit and be more, well, creative, consider a velvet suit or tux. I’m glad you took the extra step of trying to find out what this dress code really meant instead of making the wrong assumptions. Believe it or not, some have interpreted this to literally mean decorating their black ties.
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Monday, July 16, 2007
Not So Skinny Jeans
Q: “Skinny jeans are the ‘in’ thing now; but, I’m not exactly skinny. Are skinny jeans really just for skinny people?”
- Erick, Loyola Heights
A: Umm... If you’re not skinny, then they’re just plain tight jeans. For guys with average builds, low-rise boot cut jeans help create a slimming look.
Sunday, July 8, 2007
Hot Suit
"Thanks for the new article, Sartoman. Nice and helpful as always.
BTW, I've been meaning to ask you. What makes a business suit a "summer suit" -- one that is more appropriate to be worn during the summer. Are summer suits supposed to be without lining or are they supposed to use very light material/fabric? Would appreciate your view on this. Thanks."
-- Jason, Japan
A: There are two Es that generally drive what we wear -- Event and Environment. For suits, the Event influences the Cut & Style of the suit, while Environment dictates the Fabric that you will choose.
Summer-friendly fabrics include Linen, Light Wool and Cotton. Personally, I like linen because it is both laidback and stylish. It's admittedly more challenging to wear because of its wrinkly nature, but that's also its charm; definitely not for the obsessive compulsive corporate drone.
When temperatures reach mid-30 Celsius, your skin acts like Post-it Notes with the extra amount of sweat it produces to cool itself down. So, your summer suit should be a little more roomy. And, since linen suits are typically loose-fitting, they allow for good ventilation on a hot day. This one pictured here from Banana Republic is a classic light khaki linen number. If you're going to a tailor to have one made ask him to use Italian or Irish linen as these give good body and are relatively less wrinkly vs. ordinary linen.
Oh, and make sure you add an extra layer of deodorant/anti-perspirant for good measure.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Speedo Limit
Q: “I’ve noticed that more dudes are wearing Speedos in Boracay. Are board shorts out? ”
- John, Pasay City
A: Okay, so Daniel Craig in Casino Royale made the ladies drool in that skimpy number. But, reality check people… not everyone has killer abs or a swimmer’s build. Seriously, I don’t get why some guys think that wearing a man-bikini is a chick magnet. On the contrary, unless you’re reeking with mojo like Mr. Bond, a skimpy Speedo can cause more damage to your manhood than it can enhance it.
If you want to show off the body you worked so hard in the gym for, remember that you’re upper body is just as exposed when you wear board shorts. Unless your objective is to show off your thighs, then by all means, wear your water-proof briefs.
- John, Pasay City
A: Okay, so Daniel Craig in Casino Royale made the ladies drool in that skimpy number. But, reality check people… not everyone has killer abs or a swimmer’s build. Seriously, I don’t get why some guys think that wearing a man-bikini is a chick magnet. On the contrary, unless you’re reeking with mojo like Mr. Bond, a skimpy Speedo can cause more damage to your manhood than it can enhance it.
If you want to show off the body you worked so hard in the gym for, remember that you’re upper body is just as exposed when you wear board shorts. Unless your objective is to show off your thighs, then by all means, wear your water-proof briefs.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Honeymoon Jitters
Q: “I’m getting married soon and, this may sound a little unusual, but I’m stressing about what I should wear to bed on our wedding night. I don’t want to turn her off with my usual pambahay attire. Any suggestions?”
- Oliver, New Manila
A: If your “usual pambahay” (home clothes) translates to Disney pajamas, then I can see why this would be a concern. Those of us who are married can probably relate to how you feel. While the excitement is there to get the wedding reception over and done with so that we can get to the real party, there is a small feeling of anxiety to make sure we don’t do anything to mess things up. And, wearing the wrong thing can do just that. The top answer in a survey among newly married women on what sleepwear would have made them fane sickness on their wedding night was seeing their new husband in a loose tank top (sando). Showing up for bed in your jammies tells her you’re ready to sleep – “No action tonight, Dear.”
The unanimous choice for the sexiest, failsafe men’s sleepwear – a fitted shirt and boxer brief combination. Oh, and what’s comforting is that she’s probably worrying about what to wear to bed too.
My suggestion … as your wedding gifts, give each other the sleepwear that turns you on. Leather does not count as sleepwear.
- Oliver, New Manila
A: If your “usual pambahay” (home clothes) translates to Disney pajamas, then I can see why this would be a concern. Those of us who are married can probably relate to how you feel. While the excitement is there to get the wedding reception over and done with so that we can get to the real party, there is a small feeling of anxiety to make sure we don’t do anything to mess things up. And, wearing the wrong thing can do just that. The top answer in a survey among newly married women on what sleepwear would have made them fane sickness on their wedding night was seeing their new husband in a loose tank top (sando). Showing up for bed in your jammies tells her you’re ready to sleep – “No action tonight, Dear.”
The unanimous choice for the sexiest, failsafe men’s sleepwear – a fitted shirt and boxer brief combination. Oh, and what’s comforting is that she’s probably worrying about what to wear to bed too.
My suggestion … as your wedding gifts, give each other the sleepwear that turns you on. Leather does not count as sleepwear.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Who Wears the Pants?
Just recently, I met with a new client who went to my shop with the simple objective of having pants made. He had seen the work we did for his friend and liked the way we were able to get his buddy out of his 80’s style inertia. So, he figured it was time for him to invest on some tailored clothes as well, starting with the easiest and simplest article –- pants.
What he thought would be a measure-and-run session ended up to be an almost hour-long orientation on the details to consider when having a pair of pants made. Here’s a summary of the check list we went through:
FABRIC: Yes, there are other fabrics aside from khakis and denims. For office and smart casual dressing, favor light wool. For the first few pieces, stick to the basic shades of grey, navy and black. If you’re not up to dry cleaning and want a low maintenance fabric, polyester blends are what you are looking for. If you’re going to the beach or looking for something more casual, have a pair of linen pants made. This is the perfect fabric for the summer and goes well with leather sandals.
PLEATS: For those who haven’t noticed yet, pleats, those tucks or folds found on the front part of pants, are OUT… for now at least. While pleats serve a practical purpose of allowing for extra room and movement, they are generally not flattering to the figure. They can cause your pants to balloon, if not pressed properly, adding an illusion of added pounds or unflattering bulges. If you’re still having anxiety attacks at the thought of wearing unpleated pants, take the baby step of having single-pleated pants made instead. Before you know it, you’ll be ready to retire those Sperry topsiders soon too.
WAISTBAND: There are generally two ways to execute your pants’ waistband -- Center-button or Overlapping. I prefer the overlapping waistbands for a more contemporary look. I also find that this style is best for flat front pants.
BELT LOOP: Make sure you tell your tailor if you’re going to wear your pants with a belt that’s wider than average. This will make sure he adjusts your pants’ belt loops wider than the standard 1 to 1½ inches width.
SIDE POCKETS: I bet you never thought there were options when it came to pockets did you? Well, there are basically two styles to choose from: Continental or On-seam/slide pockets. Continental pockets are those that are cut on the front part of your pants, almost parallel to your waistband. This style is also more contemporary and stylish, but less functional. It’s just a little bit more difficult to reach into continental pockets, especially if you’re pants fit exactly to your body. If you’re the type who uses your pocket a lot, like me, I suggest you go with the traditional on-seam/slide pocket.
BACK POCKET: Decide on one, two or none. Typically, dress pants only have one. Apart from your wallet, what else would you put in our back pocket anyway?
CUFFS: I’m not a big fan of cuffs largely because I don’t like the way they break the clean silhouette that a good-fitting pair of pants creates. Having no cuffs also creates a vertical illusion; perfect for the average 5’6” tall Pinoy. Should you prefer cuffs, they are typically 1¼ inches wide and are more appropriate for casual pants.
BREAK: And lastly, pay attention to how your pants break. This refers to how the ends of the legs of your pants fold when they hit your shoes. The break needs to be subtle. A large break makes you look like you borrowed a taller friend’s pair of pants, while having no break, makes you look like you had a Cherifer™ or Growee™ overdose.
As we wound up our discussion, Mr. New Client leans forward and whispers, “Oh, and do you think you can give me a butt with my new pants?” Mind you, this is a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) to which the answer is, “I can only work with what the Almighty has given you.” And if that’s not enough, my shop is 10 min. away from Dra. Belo’s clinic.
What he thought would be a measure-and-run session ended up to be an almost hour-long orientation on the details to consider when having a pair of pants made. Here’s a summary of the check list we went through:
FABRIC: Yes, there are other fabrics aside from khakis and denims. For office and smart casual dressing, favor light wool. For the first few pieces, stick to the basic shades of grey, navy and black. If you’re not up to dry cleaning and want a low maintenance fabric, polyester blends are what you are looking for. If you’re going to the beach or looking for something more casual, have a pair of linen pants made. This is the perfect fabric for the summer and goes well with leather sandals.
PLEATS: For those who haven’t noticed yet, pleats, those tucks or folds found on the front part of pants, are OUT… for now at least. While pleats serve a practical purpose of allowing for extra room and movement, they are generally not flattering to the figure. They can cause your pants to balloon, if not pressed properly, adding an illusion of added pounds or unflattering bulges. If you’re still having anxiety attacks at the thought of wearing unpleated pants, take the baby step of having single-pleated pants made instead. Before you know it, you’ll be ready to retire those Sperry topsiders soon too.
WAISTBAND: There are generally two ways to execute your pants’ waistband -- Center-button or Overlapping. I prefer the overlapping waistbands for a more contemporary look. I also find that this style is best for flat front pants.
BELT LOOP: Make sure you tell your tailor if you’re going to wear your pants with a belt that’s wider than average. This will make sure he adjusts your pants’ belt loops wider than the standard 1 to 1½ inches width.
SIDE POCKETS: I bet you never thought there were options when it came to pockets did you? Well, there are basically two styles to choose from: Continental or On-seam/slide pockets. Continental pockets are those that are cut on the front part of your pants, almost parallel to your waistband. This style is also more contemporary and stylish, but less functional. It’s just a little bit more difficult to reach into continental pockets, especially if you’re pants fit exactly to your body. If you’re the type who uses your pocket a lot, like me, I suggest you go with the traditional on-seam/slide pocket.
BACK POCKET: Decide on one, two or none. Typically, dress pants only have one. Apart from your wallet, what else would you put in our back pocket anyway?
CUFFS: I’m not a big fan of cuffs largely because I don’t like the way they break the clean silhouette that a good-fitting pair of pants creates. Having no cuffs also creates a vertical illusion; perfect for the average 5’6” tall Pinoy. Should you prefer cuffs, they are typically 1¼ inches wide and are more appropriate for casual pants.
BREAK: And lastly, pay attention to how your pants break. This refers to how the ends of the legs of your pants fold when they hit your shoes. The break needs to be subtle. A large break makes you look like you borrowed a taller friend’s pair of pants, while having no break, makes you look like you had a Cherifer™ or Growee™ overdose.
As we wound up our discussion, Mr. New Client leans forward and whispers, “Oh, and do you think you can give me a butt with my new pants?” Mind you, this is a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) to which the answer is, “I can only work with what the Almighty has given you.” And if that’s not enough, my shop is 10 min. away from Dra. Belo’s clinic.
Monday, May 21, 2007
Blog Updates
To those who wrote me asking why I have not posted anything for May... Sorry guys, I've been travelling and have had minimal internet access. I'm back and will be posting answers to the questions I received soon.
A special thanks to to those that had suits and office clothes made at my shop after reading this blog. I hope you love your new clothes!
Sarto
A special thanks to to those that had suits and office clothes made at my shop after reading this blog. I hope you love your new clothes!
Sarto
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