The Ties That Bind

Q: I'm 35 and have been wearing a tie to work since I started working over 10 years ago. So, as you can expect, most of my ties are not the slim narrow ones I often see in men's magazines nowadays. Should I stop wearing my wider ties and trade them all in for the slim narrow ones? I don't want to throw my existing ties away because, well, I have a lot of them and they're not cheap.

-- Lester, via e-mail

A: As long as your ties are no more than 3-3.5 inches wide on the widest portion just before the pointed tip, they're still okay. It's the ultra wide (> 3 inches wide) ties that should be laid to rest. Slim ties are actually not new. They've just made a comeback. Believe it or not, our Dads used to wear slim ties in the 70's, together with their body-hugging nylon shirts.

Since you use ties very often anyway, it'd be good to have maybe 3 or 4 slim ties (not narrower than 2 inches on it's widest part) just to keep up with the trend and maybe look a little younger. They may go out of style in a couple of years or so, but you can bet that, like a Patek (assuming you buy a good quality one), you can pass them down to the next generation.

Wear your wider ties when you're meeting with older, more conservative people and use slimmer ties for dressy events or when pairing with jeans or chinos.

Oh and as for the pattern on your tie, stay away from flowers, cartoon characters and (for now) paisley.

Gingham City

If you're not sure about what type of checked shirt will fit you, the failsafe choice is a gingham shirt -- small checked cotton blend shirts. This type of shirt works for any body-type.

Don't be afraid to try out other colors. Blue is a staple, but shades of lavander and indigo are the current must-haves.

The other thing that works for ginghams is that it works for both business or casual.

Pair it with gray trousers and a slim black tie and you're ready for your next meeting. Ditch the tie, buckle on your military belt and trade your leathers for sneakers to welcome the weekend.

Should you fold your sleeves? It doesn't matter, but the weather will usually dictate this one.

The Real World

Sarto,

First of all, your site is an invaluable resource for us men. I've learned things about dressing up that I've never quite understood before. I have a few questions since I'm about to enter the corporate world. My college days were spent mostly in shorts, jeans, sneakers, and t-shirts. I wasn't the typical stylish guy back then but I want to have an improved image now that I'm about to work. I find myself unsure of what to buy to at least have a closet with the "essentials". Can you recommend brands of long-sleeved shirts that you prefer? I'm looking specifically for those crisp, white dress shirts that I see on TV but I can't seem to find one. How about neckties? I'm seeing inexpensive brands in department stores but I was wondering if it would be better to invest on those nice silk ties. Finally, is it advisable for me to have my pants custom-made or just stick with off-the-rack items? I hope you can suggest brands that are within the range of a typical worker earning 20-25k. Thanks a lot.

Michael

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Dressing up is not primarily about brands. It's about quality and fit. Of course, the generally accepted belief is that branded clothes tend to do well on quality. But, good fit is not always a function of the price tag.

If you're lucky to have a medium build with mannequinesque proportions, then retail is still the best and probably the more affordable option. Your mentioned income will be able to afford you classic shirts from Marks & Spencer and Zara.

However, if you have a tricky body build (vertically or horizontally challenged), then visit a good tailor with approximately 2. 5 yards of pure Japanese or Swiss cotton fabric. Be ready to spend somewhere from P 1,800 to P 2,500 for well-tailored shirts. But, I assure you, once you get the right tailor, you will be spoiled with the right-fitting shirts.

There are a lot of option for affordable ties -- those from Tie Line, Top Man and Zara are among those that won't break the bank.

On pants, I'm still for tailored, unpleated pants.

I've mentioned this before... clothes are an investment. Especially for someone who's just starting out, the first impressions you will create will have a big impact on how your career will progress (or not).

Enjoy the real world!

Holiday Angst

Okay, so the overall average temperature dropped slightly from 27C to maybe 24C -- that does not make it winter!

Why then are all of a sudden people walking around the streets of Manila wearing scarves, fedoras and, yes, gloves; looking like it's 12C out there?? Okay, maybe it's forgivable if you just came from Simbang Gabi, but during the day, at 24-25C? Either you're on your way to a costume party or you're under the weather, but otherwise, please... get real!

For those who wrote or contacted me wanting to have a suit made in a rush, I'm sorry to have declined your request, but I would rather pass up on potential business than compromise the quality of what Sarto has come to be known for. Anyway, there are a lot of shops out there who will willingly manufacture a suit in less than the 3 weeks I need to make a bespoke suit.

If you're going to have clothes made this Season, remember to tell your tailor to put maybe a 1/2 inch allowance around your stomach area, waist and hips. The holiday weight tends to linger on until maybe about early February -- unless, of course, you are the conscientious type who will hit the gym right after. I know most of us aren't ;-)

Here's to a great Chirstmas and a healthy New Year!

The Perfect Gift

If you're still clueless with what to give the men in your life this Season, how about tailored clothes?

E-mail us at sartomanila@gmail.com to inquire about gift certificates for:

1. bespoke suits
2. dress shirts
3. trousers

Sorry for not updating the blog people, work's been ... well ... work! :-)

Have a meaningful and joyful Christmas celebration!

Wash & Wear

Q: "I'd like to ask if it's hygienic to re-wear the same pants for work the following day? I'm asking because I did it for most of my internship since I don't have enough pants to rotate for the rest of the week. So I tended to wear the same pants for two consecutive days."

----- CK (via e-mail)

A: If your pants are made from wool and are lined, these are likely dry-clean only pants; therefore, it is not advisable to wash them frequently. Dry-cleaning pants frequently will lead to fabric thinning, fraying and causes those spots that are shiny (from the extreme heat of the cleaner's pressing).

However, if your pants are made from polyester or rayon blend, then these are safe for ordinary machine washing and do not need to be dry-cleaned.

I'm assuming you work in an air-conditioned office and are mostly indoors. So, you would not be exposed to a lot of dust and dirt anyway. Which means, you really only need to wash your pants maybe 2x/week for machine washable pants, and once a month for dry-clean only pants.

If you soil or stain your pants, spot-cleaning is typically recommended. For tips on how to treat several common stains, visit the Tide website at www.tide.com.

Farewell to a Great Woman

Last week, the Philippines lost one of its great leaders, former President Corazon "Cory" Aquino.

We post a yellow ribbon as a sign of our gratitude to the Woman who brought back democracy to a nation raveged by 20 years of dictatorship.

Thank you, President Cory.